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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
Originally posted by e1flakedsvt:
Jim were you at street dreams in detroit two years ago?




nope...i think your thinking of bmxcontour who was there, who has the micah front bumper and has an electric red 95 contour atx.

yes, 3.0L heads have the bigger valves, no cam driven waterpump, and they are ported and polished. also, according to terry, using 2.5L heads can cause "hot spots" in the combustion chamber. the cams are the standard 2.5L cams.

shaun, thats fine if you want to race, on the drag strip of course. i just hope you can keep up.




Funny how the 2.5L heads don't cause hot spots when they are bolted on from the factory to the 2.5L block...which is essentially the same block with a different liner and the pistons which are essentially the same except a few millimeters wider.




Using the 2.5L heads on a 3L puts a smaller combustion chamber over a wider bore block. This affects the squish band area of the combustion chamber. The squish band is a very important, and sensitive area of the chamber, and is often not understood well, even by many powertrain engineers. Personally, I would prefer not to affect this area vs. what the original chamber designer came up with unless I copious amounts of cash for proper research. Altering the squish band can have unknown effects on the combustion chamber, including possibly causing hot spots in the chamber, which makes the engine much more prone to detonation. The real problem is that its an unknown.


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Ok. Thats all a given, and understood on my end. What isn't being stated is the numbers of vehicles that run fine with 2.5 heads on 3L blocks and in fact run pretty much the same without any evidence of problems. Also, I've had the engines apart several times and compared the two together. There is really no visible difference in chamber design when you stick the 3L piston next to the 2.5L combustion chamber, Versus a 2.5L piston next to the 2.5L combustion chamber.
So although not perfect logic, the pistons having similar domes on the early motors and the overhang from the 2.5L heads being the same in both cases, then I can't see it being too significantly different. Just my opinion, but the circumstantial evidence of good running 3L's seems to somewhat support it.


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If you dont want your boosted car to spit a little smoke on a daily bases, i would have the turbo bolted as high as possible. Of course the angle could be off for me to tell but it looks as though it might be even with the middle of the Motor.Should be higher...it has something to do with how the oil drains from the turbo.

Looks awsome though

Good luck!!
S. Nathan Brown


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I'm no expert, but my buddy has a 91 Sentra with an SR20DET pushing 300HP to the wheels from a T3/04E that quite literally sits just under the hoodline, directly off the exhaust manifold and as anyone who watched him dyno last week can attest, he still got a little puff of smoke at about 5-6K i believe. That was after being hooked up to a wideband O2 meter and making sure all the vital stuff was tuned and working properly. I don't know how you can get any higher up than his is without putting a hole in your hood. Or perhaps i misunderstood what you were saying....


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Originally posted by NorMich99SE:
I'm no expert, but my buddy has a 91 Sentra with an SR20DET pushing 300HP to the wheels from a T3/04E that quite literally sits just under the hoodline, directly off the exhaust manifold and as anyone who watched him dyno last week can attest, he still got a little puff of smoke at about 5-6K i believe. That was after being hooked up to a wideband O2 meter and making sure all the vital stuff was tuned and working properly. I don't know how you can get any higher up than his is without putting a hole in your hood. Or perhaps i misunderstood what you were saying....





No you understood. That is just one reason for smoking, there are a few things that could cause smoking in a fi car.I just noticed his might be a little low. But he's doing something that i havnt seen yet and it looks great!


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Originally posted by Nathan Brown:
If you dont want your boosted car to spit a little smoke on a daily bases, i would have the turbo bolted as high as possible. Of course the angle could be off for me to tell but it looks as though it might be even with the middle of the Motor.Should be higher...it has something to do with how the oil drains from the turbo.

Looks awsome though

Good luck!!
S. Nathan Brown




Someone should tell Audi, or Callaway that they have been mounting turbos wrong all these years . . .

But seriously, turbo height doesn't really matter that much; the only thing related to that is that you need a free-flowing drain to the oil pan. Normally as long as you are high enough to run a large drain line in a smooth sweeping always downward arc to the pan, and into it above the normal oil level, you are fine. If you can't do that, there are always ways to sump the drain and pump it into the pan.


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***ATTN: Jim & Scott*** Is that an "old" alternator I see in those pics I know your not going to run that and/or the old starter, right Looking forward to two things this spring, being 100% and seeing the ultimate "BeyondloadedSE"


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yeah, thats the old alternator. hey, if it still works, why not use it right?! i would have cleaned it up like the rest of the parts, but i didnt want water getting all down into the wiring and such.


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
yeah, thats the old alternator. hey, if it still works, why not use it right?! i would have cleaned it up like the rest of the parts, but i didnt want water getting all down into the wiring and such.





Im still staring at those manifolds...


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any update on your progress?


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