Accessing subframe??s rear mounting nuts
- 1) Peal back carpet to reveal black insulation in footwell.
- 2) Feel underneath insulation for a small rectangular recessed area (appx 4x3?) where the floor starts to slope up.
- 3) Cut insulation around the recessed area.
- 4) Cut through tar paper that is glued over access panel. Pull paper away to reveal vertical grates.
- 5) Using tin snips, cut two of the grates (enough to get a 13/16? or 21mm wrench through). You should now be able to clearly see nut inside cavity.
- 6) Slide wrench (open end) onto nut
- 7) Directly below access panel opening is a circular rubber plug. Remove this plug and place pry bar (I used the lug nut breaker bar) through the hole and down through the body. This will allow you to put pressure against the rench while underneath the car.
- 8) Jack the front side of the car up. This will allow you to place more pressure on the breaker bar to hold the nut.
- 9) Use a ½ drive breaker bar with 13/16? (or 21mm) socket to loosen or tighten the bolt. Be sure to put pressure on the lug nut bar, making it pivot on the unibody rail - not the thin metal that the rubber plug was in).
- 10) Use one hand (or foot) to hold the pry bar while using other hand to loosen bolt.
Be sure to seal around the access panel to prevent moisture from getting into the car. You may want to try sealing the black insulation as well.
You could probably do one side in 30-45 mins flat.
Well, there you have it. Fairly simple procedure. I recommend using lots of penetrating fluid and giving it time to do it??s work. I had to tighten both sides so I cut open the access pannels one night, (15 min each side) and tightened the bolts the second night (15-20 mins each side).
The infamous subframe nut Driver side nut access Passenger side nut access Using pry rod to brace against wrench holding nut Good luck,
Nathan Barnard