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Yes Pic's would be very nice!!
I'm going to have to pull my carpet back and have a look.
$hit if it's that easy, I'll have to kick myself.

THX Horseydug, Nathen!


96 LX 3.0L MTX - Black/Tan K&N; 12lb F/W & uprated clutch 2.5" Pipe; SVT bits; Mystery Mod; Pull-tie Mod; UN-tuned Mod; 3rd Gear Synro-Crunch Mod 280K on the Shell, and 40ish on the Motor... 1/4 mile?? Yeah, it's a fun daily driver...
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Tell me where and what I'm looking for, and I'll look under my carpet for you.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Re bolts.

Basically after you remove the nuts, you cut the heads off the bolts that you can't remove from the top due to interference, not sure how many with mtx. Small hacksaw should be fine, power always easier if enough access.

New bolts (to replace old cut ones) are not cut, but are now inserted from below with nut installed on top. Bolt drilled and cotter pin installed to ensure nut does not back off.


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km 97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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Accessing subframe??s rear mounting nuts

  • 1) Peal back carpet to reveal black insulation in footwell.
  • 2) Feel underneath insulation for a small rectangular recessed area (appx 4x3?) where the floor starts to slope up.
  • 3) Cut insulation around the recessed area.
  • 4) Cut through tar paper that is glued over access panel. Pull paper away to reveal vertical grates.
  • 5) Using tin snips, cut two of the grates (enough to get a 13/16? or 21mm wrench through). You should now be able to clearly see nut inside cavity.
  • 6) Slide wrench (open end) onto nut
  • 7) Directly below access panel opening is a circular rubber plug. Remove this plug and place pry bar (I used the lug nut breaker bar) through the hole and down through the body. This will allow you to put pressure against the rench while underneath the car.
  • 8) Jack the front side of the car up. This will allow you to place more pressure on the breaker bar to hold the nut.
  • 9) Use a ½ drive breaker bar with 13/16? (or 21mm) socket to loosen or tighten the bolt. Be sure to put pressure on the lug nut bar, making it pivot on the unibody rail - not the thin metal that the rubber plug was in).
  • 10) Use one hand (or foot) to hold the pry bar while using other hand to loosen bolt.


Be sure to seal around the access panel to prevent moisture from getting into the car. You may want to try sealing the black insulation as well.

You could probably do one side in 30-45 mins flat.

Well, there you have it. Fairly simple procedure. I recommend using lots of penetrating fluid and giving it time to do it??s work. I had to tighten both sides so I cut open the access pannels one night, (15 min each side) and tightened the bolts the second night (15-20 mins each side).

The infamous subframe nut


Driver side nut access


Passenger side nut access


Using pry rod to brace against wrench holding nut


Good luck,
Nathan Barnard


************************ '95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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