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I am having a problem removing/tightening the two rear bolts of the front sub frame. I believe I have broken the nut's holding tabs so they just turn in place. I can't loosen or tighten them.
How do you get at the nuts for those bolts?
P.S. I have been driving the car and it feels like something is shifting when I take corners (makes an ugly click noise). I need to get these bolts tightened ASAP.
Also, my car is a 95 SE with MTX. I was trying to drop the subframe to put on new control arms.
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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 this is a wierd situation. im not a pro but im not sure there is a way to get to the nuts or if you can, which im sure you can, its probably going to be damn hard. have you tried doing a search through the archives or asking a local mechanic? 
00 Toreador Red SVT-#1751 of 2150
KKM intake
No resonator
Eibach springs 2 1/2" drop
No door ding guards
Side markers
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Yes, I've done many searches through this site.
All I have come up with is that you have to go underneath the carpet through the vent ( I've checked under the carpet in the passenger footwell and can't find a vent ). I think the vent has to be cut open to get a socket into it or something.
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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that sounds a little extreme though. i find it kind of hard to have broken the nuts off. they're welded on so maybe somethings stripped somewhere. have you tried putting loc tite on the bolts before you put them in?
00 Toreador Red SVT-#1751 of 2150
KKM intake
No resonator
Eibach springs 2 1/2" drop
No door ding guards
Side markers
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Don't know if this(posted on 08/28/02) is the same info you saw while searching. It applies to rear, but front sub-frame maybe similar.
Originally posted by 2redtours:
On my '96, some dipwad at a tire change place used one of the subframe bolts as a jack point while fixing a flat. Inside the chassis are a set of captive nuts, tack welded into place. He broke the right rear subframe mount nut loose! This resulted in a creak/groan/thunk/pop sensation (sometimes all at once!). It could be felt in the steering wheel. It was really only noticeable when accelerating from a complete stop.
To check and see if this is your problem, put a 21MM socket and a breaker bar on the bolts holding the subframe in place and try to tighten them. If they don't move, you're OK there. If they (or one of them) spin, read on.
There is *no* way to get to that nut from outside the car! It was never really intended that it be serviced outside a body shop, I guess. You have to pull up the carpet and cutout the service panel. It's not really a panel, it's a rectangular area that has a fiberboard panel glued over it. The fiberboard is covering a set of vertical strips in the sheetmetal that can be cut out with snips or twisted apart with a set of pliers (snips recommended). To get started you just punch through the fiberboard.
Then you need a 21MM wrench (a socket cannot be made to fit!) and a buddy to hold it while you tighten the bolt under the car. Do not use a 1/4" drive, this is 1/2" drive socket territory. Snug that bolt down good and tight.
Next you need to primer/paint the edges of the sheetmetal and cover it all back up somehow. I used some aluminum flashing and some sealing putty with a couple of stainless sheetmetal screws to hold it all down.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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Thank you for that post horseydug. I believe he (2redtours) was talking about the same subframe nut I am( rear nuts on the front subframe).
I have the fiberboard dug up (underneath the carpet) and will have to look again for the "set of vertical strips in the sheetmetal". This sounds like it's what I'm looking for.
I'll keep you posted! Guess I might have to go out and get a 1/2" drive set and torque rench.
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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Originally posted by Nathan:
I am having a problem removing/tightening the two rear bolts of the front sub frame.
...
I was trying to drop the subframe to put on new control arms.
Forgot to add, that although this is Ford instruction for driver's side, most cut control arm bolts bolts, to avoid dropping sub-frame. New bolts are then installed with nut on top with a cotter pin thru' bolt to prevent nut loosening off.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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I have this exact problem on my driver rear, front SF mount.
The nut inside the body just spins, and I can't get the bolt to properly tighten.
What I did is, I drilled a small hole (10mm) in from the side, and was able to get enough on it to tighten the bolt enough for only 1/4" gap between SF and body.
Now my goal is to drill the hole out a little larger and get the nut tacked welded to the body, so I can tighten the bolt properly.
Isn't this a pathetic way to design a mount?
If you're gonna make something totaly inaccessable wouldnt ya wanna make sure it'll never break?!?
96 LX 3.0L MTX - Black/Tan
K&N; 12lb F/W & uprated clutch
2.5" Pipe; SVT bits; Mystery Mod; Pull-tie Mod;
UN-tuned Mod; 3rd Gear Synro-Crunch Mod
280K on the Shell, and 40ish on the Motor... 1/4 mile??
Yeah, it's a fun daily driver...
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Originally posted by horseydug:
Originally posted by Nathan:
I am having a problem removing/tightening the two rear bolts of the front sub frame.
...
I was trying to drop the subframe to put on new control arms.
Forgot to add, that although this is Ford instruction for driver's side, most cut control arm bolts bolts, to avoid dropping sub-frame. New bolts are then installed with nut on top with a cotter pin thru' bolt to prevent nut loosening off.
Are you suggesting buying new bolts, cutting them to make them shorter, then drilling holes for cotter pins? If so, do you recall which ones had to be cut?
Also, how difficult are those bolts to cut? I see they are a high grade(8) bolt. Can they be cut with a hacksaw or should I get a Reciprocating Saw?
P.S. I successfully did the passenger without having to drop the frame, pull the drive axle, or cut any bolts - fairly easy.
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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Originally posted by touredon:
I have this exact problem on my driver rear, front SF mount.
The nut inside the body just spins, and I can't get the bolt to properly tighten.
What I did is, I drilled a small hole (10mm) in from the side, and was able to get enough on it to tighten the bolt enough for only 1/4" gap between SF and body.
Now my goal is to drill the hole out a little larger and get the nut tacked welded to the body, so I can tighten the bolt properly.
Isn't this a pathetic way to design a mount?
If you're gonna make something totaly inaccessable wouldnt ya wanna make sure it'll never break?!?
I agree - pretty pathetic design.
I was able to get access to the bolt through the inside of the car. I only took me 20 mins or so per side - pretty easy.
Pull up carpet (push to a side), cut and peel back insolation (you'll see a recessed rectangular area (4"x3" approx.), cut through thin tarboard and you'll see a grated area exposed to the cavity where the nut is. Cut two of the grills and stick a 13/16 wrench onto it (or 21mm).
P.S. I'll have to do up a little step by step with pics of this, as there seems to be little info on this site regarding accessing these SF nuts.
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'95 Contour SE V6-MTX.
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