Don't know if this(posted on 08/28/02) is the same info you saw while searching. It applies to rear, but front sub-frame maybe similar.
Originally posted by 2redtours:
On my '96, some dipwad at a tire change place used one of the subframe bolts as a jack point while fixing a flat. Inside the chassis are a set of captive nuts, tack welded into place. He broke the right rear subframe mount nut loose! This resulted in a creak/groan/thunk/pop sensation (sometimes all at once!). It could be felt in the steering wheel. It was really only noticeable when accelerating from a complete stop.
To check and see if this is your problem, put a 21MM socket and a breaker bar on the bolts holding the subframe in place and try to tighten them. If they don't move, you're OK there. If they (or one of them) spin, read on.
There is *no* way to get to that nut from outside the car! It was never really intended that it be serviced outside a body shop, I guess. You have to pull up the carpet and cutout the service panel. It's not really a panel, it's a rectangular area that has a fiberboard panel glued over it. The fiberboard is covering a set of vertical strips in the sheetmetal that can be cut out with snips or twisted apart with a set of pliers (snips recommended). To get started you just punch through the fiberboard.
Then you need a 21MM wrench (a socket cannot be made to fit!) and a buddy to hold it while you tighten the bolt under the car. Do not use a 1/4" drive, this is 1/2" drive socket territory. Snug that bolt down good and tight.
Next you need to primer/paint the edges of the sheetmetal and cover it all back up somehow. I used some aluminum flashing and some sealing putty with a couple of stainless sheetmetal screws to hold it all down.
