Well, the "Road Rat" is giving me electrical nightmares again! Started right after upper radiator hose burst on the way home the other day. Of course it soaked everything under the hood! (NOTE: I didn't let it even come near overheating, so we can pretty much rule out head gaskets for this thread!) After putting new hose on and refill with AF, car wouldnt start so I figure my problem is something is wet in my shot to hell electrical system. (I've got to try and get Ford to do the wiring recall even though its past the milage/ time limits!) Took all the electrical connectors apart, cleaned and dried them, left them open and put a big fan over the engine for 3 hours to dry everything out. Put connectors/ wiring back together (correctly!) and it fired up on second try, but running rough, like one cylinder is not firing. Let idle for 5 minutes, then used a clamp to hold throttle arm at about 2500 rom to get hot and dry things out. Ran for about another 5 minutes then died! Would not restart. Ran an engine off test and got:
118: "ECT densor is/was high." (Ok, after running 10 minutes, ECT probably heat soaked when it stalled.I can understand that code coming up.)
211: (memory code) "Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing."
(Anyone know what a "PIP" is? Can't find any mention in the Haynes manual!!)
522: "(engine On) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault. Transmission MLP sensor out of range in park "
(Thats only supposed to come up during the engine ON test, so I have NO FRIGGIN' IDEA where that's coming from!)
542 (O,M) "Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits"
543 (O) "Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits"
"(M) (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits"
I've been getting 542 and 543 for several weeks! If the fuel pump is crappy, how could I have driven 100 miles a day?!! How could it have run for 10 minutes after I got the beast started agin after drying everything out! I swapped the fule pump relay anyway, but no change. I pulled the back seat and can hear the pump working. My multmeter gives 12 plus volts when I turn on the ignition, which drops to about 10.5 volts after a few seconds. (Thats kinda' weird, unless the voltage cuts back after the fuel pressure comes up.)
Im thinking the problem may be that 211 PIP code. Anyone know what the heck it is or have any other clues?
God, Gimme a carburetor and a good ol' distributor any day! I'll deal with the gas milage!
code 211, anyone know what a PIP is?