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Actually the stock alternator is 130 amps which is pretty good. If the HO alternator is only 140-160 it might not be worth 400.00. Then I would consider taking KnuKonceptz advice about the batteries.

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130...really?? cool. I knew that...not wink

ok well get the 200 amp. smile

come on dave...batteries can only do so much...and you know it, then again if you are only gonna get a 140-160 amp alt, don't waste your money...dave's right about that. wait a little longer, save up that cash and spend the bigger bucks on the bigger amp alt. think of it this way...batteries are alot heavier than a 200 amp alt...less speed and gas mileage

rainshdw


98EO SVT, Black #30
Born on 25 March 1997
You don't like it???...GTFO!
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Quote:
Originally posted by KnuKonceptz:

Or, have a local alternator shop equip your alternator with an external voltage regulator. I did this and could have my car at idle charging at 18V if I wanted too, only took it up to 15.4V though. That wont change the amperage but you will have more voltage to play with


What would be the cost of this mod? And how would this eliminate the dimming problem when the 'amperage' that the alt is putting out isn't increased? I was quoted a price of $400+ for the 200amp H.O. alt. But the thing that makes this less feasible is the fact that the alt. only increases its output above 2-3k on the tach. (which doesn't help if you are sitting at a stoplight idling)

Quote:
I agree with Dave...that doens't happen very often. Get the H.O. Alternator first. This Item will single handly fix any and all problems with dimming. Your car was setup from the factory with the amount of amps need to run the car, 75 if I remember right, and a few extra amps available for accessories, 85 total, but NOT for aftermarket stereo's...you have maybe 10 extra amps. Then get the Alumapro...BTW they make a 5 farad CAP now...cheaper!! you don't need the 15 for your car, you really don't even need the 5...GET THE ALT!! It'll be worth your time and notice a big difference.


The 5 farad cap would be sufficent. I am of the premise that more than enough is better than to little. But I don't believe in 'OVERKILL' which I think the 15 farad would be. But capacitors are one of the accessories of car audio that falls between the cracks. When you goto all of these car audio websites you see Amps, Speakers, and HU's. A link to where I could purchase the 5 farad would be greatly appreciated. I just want my 'super-system' to be fed enough voltage with little if any drops so the 'SQ' of my system remains constant. I have seen what that 'dip' in voltage causes in a system. I have a very 'tuned' ear accoustically. I have heard many systems that sounded like garbage because of improper wiring/voltage/ and component level settings as well. So I am not going to 'skimp' on anything seeing as I have spent damn near $3000 so far on my system.

Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate all the insight you guys are providing smile

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Here's your link....I am the man! laugh

Alumapro dealers

I wasn't saying to get rid of your capacitor...not at all, they ARE a very important item in your system. YEAH spend all your money on your system whooohoo!!!!!

you are the man and deserve 5 big ones for just saying screw it to money!

rainshdw


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The regulator is only about $40-60 plus installation, I can get them. My Dad owns a shop that does this kind of work, not sure whta they actually charge, my car was the "test dummy" and it worked really well. The amperage may not be there but the extra voltage is. That may help your amps run cooler as well as keep the lights from dimming. Personaly I would stay clear of caps, MHO they suck. What happens if your charging system can't recharge the cap?. With a battery you have some reserve and is a better "buffer" than a cap after the initial "burp". The SVR 33-12 wont add much weight (30 pounds or so) and since you already have a ton of weight the extra 30 is not going to make or break you wink BTW I sell the 33-12's at my work, I'll be giving my two week notice there shortly, If you are interested I can get you a decent price (around $85 delivered) on the 33-12


2000 SVT Contour #1077/2150 MSDS Headers/B&M Shifter/H&R's/

1995 Contour SE V6 #????/Tons KnuProject, awaiting mass mods
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Quote:
Originally posted by KnuKonceptz:
The regulator is only about $40-60 plus installation, I can get them. My Dad owns a shop that does this kind of work, not sure whta they actually charge, my car was the "test dummy" and it worked really well. The amperage may not be there but the extra voltage is. That may help your amps run cooler as well as keep the lights from dimming. Personaly I would stay clear of caps, MHO they suck. What happens if your charging system can't recharge the cap?. With a battery you have some reserve and is a better "buffer" than a cap after the initial "burp". The SVR 33-12 wont add much weight (30 pounds or so) and since you already have a ton of weight the extra 30 is not going to make or break you wink BTW I sell the 33-12's at my work, I'll be giving my two week notice there shortly, If you are interested I can get you a decent price (around $85 delivered) on the 33-12


KnuKonceptz, I am interested. Email me with the details of where to pick these components up.

mr_home_wrecka@yahoo.com

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