Originally posted by kinger:
1. I get sick of people ragging on the SC system. It does exactly what its supposed to do...a 100 shot of nitrous oxide all on tap all the time!

2. Saying your going to a 3L now because of the lack of low end torque of a SC 2.5L is just plain wrong. There is no comparison there! Why would you rather trade 30-40 hp for a little more low end versus over 100hp up top? (where it matters by the way)

3. You remember your driving a V6 right? If you want all the power to show up under 4000rpm...save your money and buy a damn V8! Its a shame you have a car that has so much enginering into the dual intake system and you never even activate the IMRC!



1. Get used to it. The kit is a very poorly engineered mess. Yes it does act exactly like a centrifugal S/C should. Yes the mess can be patched for a substantial amount of money (injectors, I/C, shaft bearing, etc)

2. Ever consider the price difference? $1000-1500 vs $3500
The 3L has 3 times the bang for the buck the S/C does. Hell throw in the upgraded shaft bearing and an intercooler and the S/C is now more expensive then the turbo kit. Talk about a no brainer skipping the S/C...

Not only that but the greater power under the curve would make the 3L a much faster car in road racing (auto-x) and slightly faster racing from a dead stop. Yes up until a point. IMO about a 1/4 mile actually since a S/C car runs only low 14's but at 98-101mph. Meaning the quicker out of the hole 3L would be there but the S/C car would be pulling.

3. Sensationalism at it's finest. No comment.

Had to add this since it covers both posts...

Originally posted by BStoneMega:
I agree dude. After 1st gear the Vortech screams all the way to 7600 rpm. So learn to down shift and the power is there.



Great way to drastically shorten your engine life.

This is exactly why I stated a 3L and turbo are "not required" to rev the piss out of the engine to make power. The stock components are actually very strong, but rpm is the one factor that will destroy any of them. Being able to keep the rpm limit down to a more sane level and still generate the power and performance you need is an infinitely better way to go about power production. For the S/C kit you would have to drop several pulley sizes to bring boost levels up fast enough to not need to greatly surpass 7000 rpm just to make any appreciable power. This is turn causes the S/C and shaft to spin at an exponentially greater speed which will in turn drive down reliability and longevity. Yet again more drawbacks...


So my statements are not based on heresay, unfounded opinions, or baseless personal accusations. Just good hard data and logical thinking.


BTW if you want to compare mods price for price...

Think about this...

Base S/C kit with no frills & all the flaws ($3200-3500)

or

Full 3L Engine - well built
Ported heads
Upgraded Oil Pan Baffle, screen, pan
Et cetera

Transmission
Torsen LSD and etc
Spec Clutch
Spec Flywheel
All upgraded shifter forks and tower

Plus the Suspension (struts & springs) of your choice


That's around $3200-3500...


Now compare those two projects against one another and get back to me okay...


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.