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#759918 10/02/03 02:44 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
R
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
R
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
Now distributed by Loctite!


"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
#759919 10/02/03 02:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 115
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CEG\'er
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 115
A Tip.

Before you put the rotors back on, clean off the studs and the hub with a wire brush (preferably a drill mounted wheel brush)to remove the corrosion. Then put a LIGHT coating of anti seize compound (also by Loctite as well as others)on the studs and where the rotor mates to the center hub. Wipe off the excess with a paper towel before putting the rotor and lug nuts back on. You just need a coating to prevent further corrosion from occuring! You DO NOT want to have any get onto the braking suraces or the pads! Use gloves when you work with this stuff because it is real messy and a [censored] to get off your hands. Next time you need to remove a rotor they will come off much easier! Reapply the anti seize on occasion to continue to prevent further corrosion. Once a year should do it. Best to do just before winter as road salt really causes a lot of corrosion!

FWIW.


Former, now returned CEG'er! 95SE MTX, (AKA "The Road Rat"). Stock except for:TH fix, B.A.T. big brake kit, tranny cocktail and lots of re-insulated wiring! May yet be a 3.0! "Speed doesn't kill, stupidity does!"
#759920 10/03/03 01:17 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 135
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 135
Amen on the anti-seize compound! Just a few extra seconds now saves you loads of time down the line. Same reason why you'd never do plumbing without a spool of Teflon tape handy for the threads. It's a detail that is unfortunately overlooked if you take the car into the shop.

Po


Po 1995 Mercury Mystique GS: Zetec 2.0L I-4, CD4E 1978 Ford Thunderbird Town Landau: 351M (5.8L V-8), FMX Coming in 2007 -- 1986 Jaguar XJ12 Sovereign: 5.3L High-Efficiency V-12, GM transmission
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