Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Battery won't hold a charge more than 2-3 days?

'96 Contour LX V6 ATX, battery is less than 2 years old. It's my wet-weather/utility car so in the summer months I don't drive it but once a week. A couple months ago it started losing enough charge between drives that it wouldn't start after a few days of sitting. Once I charge it or jump it it'll drive and start just fine, repeatedly, no hassles at all...until it sits for more than 2 or 3 days. Even if I turn the radio off and make sure all accessories are off before shutting off the car. Cable connections all appear good and clean and tight.

I checked the water level in it last week and it took at least 10 ounces of water, which I figured was the problem or the result of the charging. In any case it does not seem to have helped.

The batteries for these things are expensive and I can't find the damned receipt for this one so I'm in no hurry to replace it unneccessarily.

Should I be probing for amperage (or something else) at all the fuses, while the power is supposedly off? Or just slap a damn battery in it and hope for the best?

Most car parts places will do a charging system check for you for free and I believe they can check for a leak when the key is turned off. I had 2 die-hards die on me in less than 2 years so sometimes batteries just dont last. The 2nd warranty replacement has been going strong for about 4 years now. If you don't have the receipt, just go back to the place you bought the battery from and if they still sell that brand, they should honor the warranty. There is sometimes a punch tag on the battery that says when it was purchased/installed.

Usually something stupid - like the hood or trunk light stuck on and draining the battery.

Best to also check volts at bat with engine on, should be less than 15. If more, your alt has a faulty regulator and is "boiling" your battery.

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Best to also check volts at bat with engine on, should be less than 15. If more, your alt has a faulty regulator and is "boiling" your battery.

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I would agree. Also, you said 10 ozs of water. Was that evenly split between all 6 cells, i.e. about 1.6 ozs per cell, or did any take a lot more than others? If so, get your battery checked as well! The Duratec cars put out a lot of underhood heat which is not good for the battery. My 95 had heat insulation in the form of black bubble wrap put around the battery from the factory. It lasted a little over two years, (just past warranty!) B4 dying. Consider removing the underhood insulation. Its only there for sound deadening purposes and removing it doesn't add that much more noise. (Personaly, I like hearing my engine!)

Avoid batteries made by Exide. IMHO, their quality has gone to the dogs. Sears had a big Die Hard recall a few years back. (Exide makes for Sears, Peb Boys and a lot of other name brands, so check first if in doubt!)Exide KNEW they where manufacturing bad batts and shipped them out anyway!
Again, IMHO, Interstate makes about the best conventional (wet cell) car battery these days. I had 2 Peb Boys (Exide) batteries and neither lasted more than 2 years. Finaly said hell w/ warranty and bought Interstate. No Problems.

Whatever you buy watch out for the height of the the top posts!! The parts guy will tell you its the right replacement, and the first time you close your hood anything beyond real gently, you'l have a nice ding in your hood! (Found that out the hard way!)


Good Luck!

Thanks everyone. It took water evenly in each cell. I'll check the running voltage, but the thing is, I monitored voltage just about every day while the car was parked for a few days and it dropped a few tenths of a volt every day.

How should I go about checking for draws? Should I first disconnect a battery lead and look for amperage between the lead and the battery terminal? Seems to me if there's no draw, I'd see no amperage. So if I see amperage, reconnect battery and start pulling fuses to check for voltage across the socket terminals, assume any circuit that shows any voltage when it should be off contains a faulty componenet creating a draw?

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Should I first disconnect a battery lead and look for amperage between the lead and the battery terminal? Seems to me if there's no draw, I'd see no amperage. ...start pulling fuses to check for voltage ... assume any circuit that shows any voltage when it should be off contains a faulty componenet creating a draw?

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There will always be SOME draw when off. Memory for the PCM (engine computer), radio, etc. Burglar alarm draws if you have one. That could be faulty and draining batt if you have one. When you check the circuits for draw, check the ones that SHOULD be off like you said. (Check your manual) Worst case scenario, you can completely disconnect batt for a few days and see if same situation. You will have to let the car idle awile afterwards and take it easy the first coiple of miles driving so the PCM can re learn for your your engine. If still going dead, have batt checked.

did you check your clove box and trunk lights to see if they are staying on after closing?

The battery was losing charge even when disconnected, and after a few seconds I wasn't getting any amperage between the terminal and its post. Took the battery back, got it pro-rated on a new one. All's good. Except for the MOTHER [censored] GODDAMNED SON OF A WHORE P402 code I'm sick of wasting time on...

ouch...me ears.

good that it still had some warranty