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Originally posted by csc99svt: rosin core is good, but there are usually a few different types of rosin core out there, get the one that has the highest percentage of metal in it....and i would think 35 watts would be fine, might be a little slow goin at first, but i would think it would still work.......
Are you talking about soldering the metal eyelet back on to the plate?
1998 E0 Ford Contour SVT - DOB 8/19/97 - #3101/6535
Silver Frost/Midnight Blue
Visit MY SVT website * K&N RU-3530 (howls like a MOFO  ) and Homemade Heatshield *
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I went to Kragen, Pep Boys, and a local audio shop and none of them really wanted to help me, knew what I could do, or had the part I needed. One guy at Kragen said that if I choose to use a wire to connect all 3 ground wires and then connect that wire via an eyelet to the terminal, I should try to make sure that I use a large gauge wire as the ground will not be independent anymore. The problem is, NONE of the stores have any wires that accept a wire on one end and have an eyelet on the another end...? I'm kind of freakin' out because I can't drive my car without a battery and I have to leave for college in a week (not to mention I have a CEL to take care of)...  mycainsbroken: you said you used a an eyelet...was this a wire with an eyelet, or just an eyelet? Because if it is just an eyelet, there isn't enough length on the ground wires to reach the terminal with just an eyelet. Also...how did you remove the ground wires that are crimped to the metal plate...did you cut the wires before they met the metal plate, or did you undo the crimp? I'll try PM'ing you... The thing I don't get is I've seen tours without this stupid metal plate at all (either stock from the factory or after an audio install...)? Why do some tours have them and others don't?
1998 E0 Ford Contour SVT - DOB 8/19/97 - #3101/6535
Silver Frost/Midnight Blue
Visit MY SVT website * K&N RU-3530 (howls like a MOFO  ) and Homemade Heatshield *
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Radio Shack will have the eye connector you're looking for. It might cost you near $2, cause they might make you buy a package of them. I say go for it.
I've never seen one of those plate things before. My Contour came with three little eye connectors that attach to the negative cable, & I've had no problems with them yet. They seem to be corroding just a bit, so I may have to replace the connectors down the road a year or so.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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my 95gl has a plate like that. i actually saw an extension online yest. lemme try to find the site.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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Originally posted by TourDeForce: Radio Shack will have the eye connector you're looking for. It might cost you near $2, cause they might make you buy a package of them. I say go for it.
I've never seen one of those plate things before. My Contour came with three little eye connectors that attach to the negative cable, & I've had no problems with them yet. They seem to be corroding just a bit, so I may have to replace the connectors down the road a year or so.
I actually was able to find eye connectors at some of the local shops. Problem is that they were eye connectors ONLY with no wire attached to them. I need a wire (just a few, 3-4, inches) with an eyelet on one end and a connector on the other end to hook up the ground cable. This would give me enough play in the wire length to reach the negative terminal.
If I were to simply take off the plate, cut, crimp, and strip the 3 ground wires, and hook up the eye connector directly to them, the wires would not be long enough to reach the negative terminal (the ground wire lengths are shorter by design because they use the metal plate to reach the terminal...without the plate, the wires are too short to reach the terminal).
I am not sure if csc99svt was talking about soldering wires together or soldering the broken eyelet connector to the plate, but... I was looking at the plate and its not very thick. Theoretically, if I heated up the broken eyelet while hoolding it up to the plate (probably with a couple of extra steady hands) I could liberally apply solder to the joint and it may reattach (even with my 35w iron and 60/40 rosin core solder). I would let that sit for a few minutes and harden up. Although this would be somewhat firm, the solder would most likely be rather malleable and I don't want to take a chance of it breaking again. So I'm thinking I'll just apply some JB Weld (which is non-conductive) around the solder on the joint to give it some extra strength. If I can't find the eyelet extension wire I need and all else fails, I may end up trying this soldering/jb weld method to reattach it...of course this will also require me to go back to the stock battery (may be a blessing in disguise as it will save me from forking over $90 for the Optima).
1998 E0 Ford Contour SVT - DOB 8/19/97 - #3101/6535
Silver Frost/Midnight Blue
Visit MY SVT website * K&N RU-3530 (howls like a MOFO  ) and Homemade Heatshield *
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Originally posted by Brent 95 SE: maybe drill a hole & bend a new tab on what's left?
Brent
That's what I do, electrons don't care about pretty connections, just clean connections.
Also, the "eyelet" connections are fine. You could get three butt splices, three eyelets and wire to lengthen these.
You just need your battery to connect to the car body and engine for ground. Since you are talking about the ground side, IIRC, you can connect those three wires to ANY part of the car that is grounded. So start looking for other grounds or a nut or bolt where you can connect.
Don't feel that you have to connect to the battery, connect at any convenient location that is grounded.
TB
"Seems like our society is more interested in turning each successive generation into cookie-cutter wankers than anything else." -- Jato 8/24/2004
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I don't get the problem... You say you don't wanna use the plate altogether... okay.. then don't.. From what I've read (and I could be mistaken) you've already got the tools neccessary to get rid of it..
Place an eyelet on the end of your ground cable (the end connected to the car, and use a bolt/nut/washer to connect it to ANYWHERE on the car chassis (inside the lip of the hood is a good place to start) that isn't painted, and is metal.
As far as those other wires being too short... add more to them.. either use butt splices (3M splice connectors, if you are looking on a package) or use the soldering iron and solder you have... 60/40 isn't quite "eutectic" (no plastic state, while cooling.. instant liquid/instant hard) as that would be 63/37) Rosin core means that the solder has rosin type flux inside the core of the strands.. You need flux to solder.. its a heat-transfer agent, and promotes wetting, to make strong connections..
Only thing you may want is a little isopropyl alcohol, to clean up the sticky flux-residue you'll have remaining on the wires... (flux promotes corrosion of metals/epoxy-glass circuit boards/etc, over time...)
Just form what little wire you do have in to a hook on the end, and form your new wire into a hook on one end. Interlock them together and solder the joints... Enough to create the sloped "fillets" at their joints... "the bigger the glob, the better the job" does not apply here..
For a more sturdy connection... cross the two wires at 90ยบ angles (like you are getting ready to tie your shoes..) and then twist each wire around the core of the other wire (with your left wire going counter-clockwise, and your right wire going clock-wise, or vice versa) to form one long strand, with a "spring-look" in the center..
solder those wrapped connections..
HTH
Ray Haralson Micro/Miniature Electronics Repair USN
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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