Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio Stock Alternator

Hey, does anyone know what the stock Alternator puts out? I have a 98 GL, Power windows, etc.. it looks HUGE... compared to my 91 camaro... I have a Rockford 400.4 and a 500.2 that I am going to be using. I already have a Stinger .5 Cap..... You think everything will be alright? HELP.. thanks, Jason

I believe it's 130 amps according to the Haynes manual. Explains why the lights don't flicker with the stereo or rear defroster.

Yes, 130 amps is right. Suprisingly high for stock I thought. The only thing you might need to do is upgrade your battery. You might not even need to do that. I am powering about the same amount of electronics and I upgraded my battery and moved it to the trunk. It made a difference, at least I can notice. But then again I am psycho when it comes to my car and stereo!

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Chad Williams
chad5160@usa.net
'99 SVT Frost Silver #812 of 2760 Born on Jan. 12, 1999
KKM, No Res, Shaved, Apline CDA-7864, Boston 5x7 Coax's, Original Punch Power Amps (Gold/Silver 240 4ch & 100 2ch), Audiocontrol X-Over, 3 MTX Thunder6000 10's, Stinger Power/Signal, Optima Red Top in Trunk..More to come

Wow thats how many amps it puts out I thought it was lower than that I was gettin ready to upgrade it cuz my lights flicker realy bad with the amps I have and I have 2.5 farid back there well there goes my idea

I was informed buy a Tech at 'Stinger' 9 when I was considering chucking out $300+ dollars for an aftermarket alt.) that the first thing you do is upgrade your battery wiring (ground & 12 volt) then see what a difference it makes. He basically told me that with us adding another 50 or 60 amps worth of draw (depending on the Audio set-up) that the alternator probably has enough current but the 'stock' wiring under the hood can't distribute it, hence the dimming. I am going to do the upgrade when the weather permits. I'll post the results.

As of now I have:
Pioneer P4100 HU
Alpine EQ
Hifonics Boltar 2 channel amp
4 guage Ground and power wiring
And a custom made 3 sub sealed box that I am going to fill with either Jl Audio W7's or W6's

I ran my battery in the trunk and upgraded the battery wire to 2 guage. I run an Optima red top 1050 and also upgraded the ground to 2 guage. Grounds in the rear to the frame. The battery is so close to the amps, less then 5 feet of wire was used...I think it makes a difference. Anyone know specs on the stock battery? I think the battery upgrade is well worth it.

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Chad Williams
chad5160@usa.net
'99 SVT Frost Silver #812 of 2760 Born on Jan. 12, 1999
KKM, No Res, Shaved, Apline CDA-7864, Boston 5x7 Coax's, Original Punch Power Amps (Gold/Silver 240 4ch & 100 2ch), Audiocontrol X-Over, 3 MTX Thunder6000 10's, Stinger Power/Signal, Optima Red Top in Trunk..More to come

Could I get some info on moving the Battery to the trunk. It would be greatly appreaciated.

As I recall the stock battery in a Zetec is 650 Cranking Amps. May be more for a Duratec/SVT. I upgraded my battery to a Lightning Audio SBX1500, I love it...has a built in voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery. Also, I upgraded the factory ground to 1/0 AWG, then altered the distribution of the wires into the engine bay fuse box. As 'WRECKA' was told by Stinger you SHOULD definatley upgrade the factory wiring before installing more than one amp. With a 130 amp alt. adding one moderate(ie.2,4 channel) amp shouldn't be a problem. HTH.