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Re: Precat Gutting Rant!! #729974 08/25/03 10:45 PM
Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 873 Portland, OR Q Qbert_dup1 Veteran CEG\'er
Qbert_dup1 Veteran CEG\'er Q Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 873 Portland, OR	I had this happen on two of my studs when I modified my y-pipe. Basically what we did was heat what is left of the stud up with a MAP gas torch. We then continued applying heat as we pounded the stud out with a sledge hammer. If you have a bench vice, just open it up wide enough to lay the flange on it so that the stud has room to move out. The are in there REALLY well! 2004 Focus PZEV 2.3L - KW sport suspension, SP camber plates, Eibach front swaybar, FS intake, FS Stealth exhaust, 3.82 Final, Torsen ATB, Prothane MM insert, E1 CSVT wheels 1/4 mile - 15.201@89.4mph

Re: Precat Gutting Rant!! #729975 08/26/03 12:28 AM
Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 3,944 Corinth, MS U unisys12 OP Hard-core CEG'er
OP unisys12 Hard-core CEG'er U Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 3,944 Corinth, MS	Originally posted by Qbert: They are in there REALLY well! Yeah! Tell me about it! I will try the heating method myself and if that does not work, I guess I will have to take it to an exhaust shop and let them do it. Should be do able though. Thanks for all the advice guys. Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime

Re: Precat Gutting Rant!! #729976 08/31/03 12:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 3,944 Corinth, MS U unisys12 OP Hard-core CEG'er
OP unisys12 Hard-core CEG'er U Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 3,944 Corinth, MS	Little update to this... I have not had much luck with shops in my past. They always seem to screw something else up. That was one of the reasons I did not want to take my car to the exhaust shop to get that stud removed. Had to take it anyway, but stopped the guy before he cut the flange off!!! I asked him what he was fixing to do and he replied with, "I am going to cut the flange off and weld a sleeve in place of it." I got my car back from him, went home and adjusted on the flange with the busted stud until it did not leak. Yep! There is a y-pipe in my future! He did tell me about a clamp that you can buy that will support the flange, on a temp basis, in cases like mine. He told me it was about $25. So I figure that if I cannot get the pipe very soon I will do that just in case. I don't really like the idea of only having one stud holding the y-pipe to the bank 2 exhaust manifold. Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime

Re: Precat Gutting Rant!! #729977 08/31/03 03:43 PM
Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 3,732 Pittsburgh, PA R Russell-3L Hard-core CEG'er
Russell-3L Hard-core CEG'er R Joined: Aug 2002 Posts: 3,732 Pittsburgh, PA	grind the stud off so its flush with the flange and get a good drill and drill a new hile, this is waht i did when i replaced the balljoint and everything went fine Russell Oval Port 3L Nearly Done MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete

Re: Precat Gutting Rant!! #729978 09/01/03 07:58 PM
Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 171 Shelbyville, IN M mrspindlelegs CEG\'er
mrspindlelegs CEG\'er M Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 171 Shelbyville, IN	Originally posted by unisys12: Alright, so I have been needing to gut my bank 1 precat for a good while now. Today, I decided to do it. Simple enough right? Wrong.... I had one freaking stud break on me, and it has turned everything to crap! On the bank 2 precat, the stud located closest to the oil pan. I knew something like this would happen since everything under there is rusted to bleep and back. So before I started, I ran out to the parts store to got some bolts and nuts just in case. My problem is this... I cannot for the life of me, which right now is not adding up to much, get the darn stud out of the flange. I knew it was pressed in, but !!!! I really don't see a way to get a small press, sort of like a ball joint puller, on the flange. So how can I get it out? I have beat on it until my arms are like rubber and I have started thinking about paying the neighbors to take turns at it! Actually beating on it is not doing much good other then flaring the end of it out. And yes, of course I have used a lubricant and it was not WD40. It was some stuff called Moovit by Lloyds. It worked great on helping break the others loose. I know this advise is coming a bit late but the first rule of working on a rusty exhaust is: 1. If you don't have a "flame wrench" (acetylene torch) available, don't bother. followed by: 2. If you still have to do the work without the flame wrench, make sure you have access to something like a saws-all, die grinder, dremel tool with cutting disks, or a hacksaw because something is bound to go wrong. Not having the right tools for the right job is a prescription for disaster. Dave Keller 1995 Contour SE 1999 Contour SVT

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