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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75 |
Has anyone else used the how to in this site to install or replace springs. Because I used it and maybe my car is completely wack but there is no way that the stock front springs can be safely compressed enough with a do it your self spring compressor. I brought my front struts over to midas and the spring had to be compressed a ton and after it was taken out it must have been 6 or 7 inches taller from perch to perch top to bottom. A spring compressor was definitely needed to install the eibachs also but midas did it with the nice professional unit. Other than that the how to for the rear was on target and very simple. But I seriously question the how to section on the front of the car. Has anyone had the same experience with that as me? Later Steve 
1998 SVT #95: Toreador Red - SHM headers, SHM custom tuned chip, K&N Filter, Energy Suspension MM inserts, Cross Drilled Rotors,Redline Tranny Fluid, Custom Billet Aluminum Shift Knob, Edelbrock RPM 5503 resonator,15.441 @ 91.66 mph
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75 |
whoops! I just noticed the post a little farther down about the same thing. Sorry
1998 SVT #95: Toreador Red - SHM headers, SHM custom tuned chip, K&N Filter, Energy Suspension MM inserts, Cross Drilled Rotors,Redline Tranny Fluid, Custom Billet Aluminum Shift Knob, Edelbrock RPM 5503 resonator,15.441 @ 91.66 mph
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854 |
it took alot of compressing, but I did my front and rear by myself...well with a friend. It took a while cause it was my first time but i don't understand the problem. It was as straight forward as it gets.
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75 |
His directions are straight forward but when it comes to removing the stock front springs you are putting yourself in a lot of danger when spring compressors can compress it enough. The stock springs are so compressed that there is no way that you would be able to take the perch off with out it popping off like a rocket. It says for the new lowering spring : Install (UNCOMPRESSED) new spring onto the strut (or new strut), lining up the end of the spring with the step in the strut spring seat. Reassemble the remainder of the strut assembly. You may have to push down a little on the top spring hat to get the top nut on, then tighten down with the box wrench and Allen key. Yeah right! Possibly H&R's but not eibachs. Well actually if you had a buddy that weighs about 400lbs and stands on top then you wouldnt have to use a spring compressor. Yes the Howto for the rear is nice and straight forward but not the front in more than this one instance. Maybe my car being one of the first 100 made had different springs but I highly doubt this. I am not trying to complain but I cant be the only one that has seen this mistake in the Howto. Later Steve 
1998 SVT #95: Toreador Red - SHM headers, SHM custom tuned chip, K&N Filter, Energy Suspension MM inserts, Cross Drilled Rotors,Redline Tranny Fluid, Custom Billet Aluminum Shift Knob, Edelbrock RPM 5503 resonator,15.441 @ 91.66 mph
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 75 |
I didnt proof read my post. It should say when spring compressors cant (not can) compress it enough.
1998 SVT #95: Toreador Red - SHM headers, SHM custom tuned chip, K&N Filter, Energy Suspension MM inserts, Cross Drilled Rotors,Redline Tranny Fluid, Custom Billet Aluminum Shift Knob, Edelbrock RPM 5503 resonator,15.441 @ 91.66 mph
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854 |
Again...it took alot of cranking, but I was able to compress them enough with the spring compressors i rented at a local tool rental place without hurting myself. And I've done both H&R's AND Eibach's and neither required the use of spring compressors when putting them back on. Front or back. Originally posted by SVT#95:
His directions are straight forward but when it comes to removing the stock front springs you are putting yourself in a lot of danger when spring compressors can compress it enough. The stock springs are so compressed that there is no way that you would be able to take the perch off with out it popping off like a rocket.
It says for the new lowering spring : Install (UNCOMPRESSED) new spring onto the strut (or new strut), lining up the end of the spring with the step in the strut spring seat. Reassemble the remainder of the strut assembly. You may have to push down a little on the top spring hat to get the top nut on, then tighten down with the box wrench and Allen key.
Yeah right! Possibly H&R's but not eibachs. Well actually if you had a buddy that weighs about 400lbs and stands on top then you wouldnt have to use a spring compressor.
Yes the Howto for the rear is nice and straight forward but not the front in more than this one instance. Maybe my car being one of the first 100 made had different springs but I highly doubt this. I am not trying to complain but I cant be the only one that has seen this mistake in the Howto.
Later
Steve
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463 |
I had to purchase a second spring compressor to do the fronts. My original set could not compress the spring enough to safely remove the top bolt. The new set had quick lock safety pins and worked much better then my original set (purchased at autozone). It was easier to use both sets, but I think the new set could have managed.
jeff
have you fixed your ford lately?
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