Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance accesories belt replacement interval

What is the correct replacement interval for an accessories belt change? How difficoult DIY job this is, and do I need to replace the tensioner?

#1 That depends on who you ask.

#2 That depends on who you ask.

#3 That depends on who you ask.








I say: 60K miles, if you have to ask it's a bad sign, and yes to be safe - don't wanna get caught in BFE on a sunday - right!

1. You are absolutely right

2. You are absolutely right

3. You are absolutely right

As for asking, well it is prudent to ask. Reason I was asking about DIY was because the tools involved. I guess should word it differently.

So there are the questions (reprashed):

How does one know that belt needs to be replaced (obviously that knowledge is lacking due to the lack of proper record keeping related to the car), what are the signs that indicate impending belt replacement?

Also, how easy is to replace the tensioner?

Look for cracks on the serp. belt, The goodyear gatorbacks have small indentations that run at an angle to the grooves making it more flexible than the oem belt. It aso seems to be made of a softer compound. Look into a DMD and change the belt during the DMD install.

A Ford dealer will tell you that the belt will last 100,000 miles. If you ask me, I'll say it is an on-condition replacement. It is all up to you. If you don't like how it looks or you question its integrity, change it.

It takes me about 20 minutes to change a belt on a v6 tour. Not as big of a deal as some make it out to be. The hardest parts are releasing the tensioner, moving the tensioner to get the new belt on and routing the belt over all the pulleys. Other than that its not bad.

The tensioner, as long as it keeps the belt tight I'd say its good. But, when you take the belt off, turn the pulley on the tensioner, and grab onto it and see if you can feel any play in its bearing. If it sounds gritty as you turn it, feels gritty as you turn it, or if the pulley bearings have any play, replace the tesioner.

Remember, you want the tensioner to last as long as the new belt so you don't have to take it all appart again a year or 2 later when the tensioner quits.

my .02

Owner's manual says 60k, but the rubber will age over time, as well.

Cracks across the ridges are normal, but gaps in the ridges indicate replacement. As would fraying or cracks on the backside.

It's not hard. You might be able to release tension with a 3/8 breaker bar. If you can't fit the bar into the tensioner because of low clearance with the inside of the fender (my case), there is a special tool available for loan from your local Autozone. If you don't have Autozone, call around. Some other parts outlets offer similar tool programs.

OK guys thanks a lot for the info.
I have inspected the belt and it looks fine. No craks, horizontal or vertical, just some marks on the outside of the belt like it was lightly schratched with something (could be during the installation of it) tensioner is quiet when the engine is running, and at the start up, so it looks I am in the clear for now. As for the Auto Zone loaner tool, too bad that I live in Bosnia where AZ is available on the net only (did order some of the filters and plugs of of them and came out good). This list (as well as is the parent Mondeo list in the UK) have been a life saver for me so far. The memebers have showed, so far, nothing but patience, good humor and deep knowledge of automobile issues and I am grateful for it. Thank you all for all of the help.

Ed

I couldn't fit a breaker bar into the tensioner either, because not enough clearance between the fender. So I ended up using a large cressent wrench grip the tensioner casting. It wasn't fun, but I managed to get the job done with only minor cuts and bruises.