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#723591 08/18/03 01:42 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
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dbbubba Offline OP
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I put on a new timing belt and everything else (tensioner, guides and water pump) but the timing belt wants to slap against the plastic cover over the top of the camshaft pulleys.
It quiets down after a few minutes, but it is very annoying at first. The tensioner is pulling the belt tight because of the spring. The bolt that holds the tensioner on is not very tight (25-30 flbs.) like the manual and a mechanic recommended.

The original tensioner DID NOT have a spring!?!?
The P.O.S. (piece of crap) tensioner broke apart at 168K.
The belt actually looks OK (yes... I replaced it.)

I used a piece of angle iron to keep the camshafts in place at TDC, so they are correct in relation to one another.
What I do wonder is how much play the camshaft can have due to the pully rotating slightly on the camshaft over time...
The manual shows that you can loosen the torx bolt that holds the pulley on the camshaft and rotate the pully with a "special" tool. The piece of angle iron holds the camshafts at TDC. This would tighten the belt between the camshaft pulleys. Buttt.... I imagine that there is a degree of play designed in... why?

Also, the timing belt started slapping against the cover at about 65K miles (it now has 168K.) I am annoyed that it does it after I replaced everything.

WHY?

DB

#723592 08/18/03 06:57 PM
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Originally posted by dbbubba:
The P.O.S. (piece of crap) tensioner broke apart at 168K.




Anything that FORD makes that lasts more then 100,000 miles is a MIRACLE.
Being that the original tensioner lasted 168,000 miles, I wouldn't exactly label it POS.

And your belt slap is probably caused by loose rockers.
Since the Cam is an OHC design, the rockers are more followers than rockers.
The cam sits on top of the rocker, and the rocker sits between the valve and the lifter.
The only way to adjust the valve lash is to add a larger shim between the rocker and the lifter or the valve.
I'm not even sure if there are shims there.
If there are no shims, then you may need to replace the worn cam,
worn rickers, worn valves, and worn lifters.
Getting rid of the valve lash, will make the cam spin smoother, and the belt will not slap.

If the engine runs fine otherwise, I would just leave it alone.
It is too big of a job to do just to get rid of the belt slap.


Pete... 2004 Mercury Marauder 300A Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER DOB 10/31/2003 DOP 1/2/2004 www.mercurymarauder.net
#723593 08/28/03 01:08 AM
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I just did my timing belt 500 miles ago i did the water pump the tensioner and the spring and the tensioner pulley and idlers on mine , when i did it used a peace of flatbar

but it was too small and there was some play in the cams and the car didnt have any power it would idle great but no power,so i did it again and i went the home depot and got a 3/16 flatbar and it worked great no play in the cams ,

mine had a little slack in between the cams then i loosen the tensioner bolt and let the spring pull the slack and roate it and then tighten the pully down then line up all the marks and make sure you can stil put that 3/16 flatbar back in it worked for me on the second time

iam in dallas so if you need someone else to take a look you can email me at caspergsx@aol.com


96 Contour Gl (wifes new car 91 GVR4#1382 (the true sleeper 91 TSI AWD (project celluite AWD & 4WS what else do you want in a car

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