Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Audio what r the best subs

Don't listen to the idiot about the pyramids.

I think that "contour sucks" guy was serious about the pyramids, they are probably equivalent quality to his car.

Strokers have been bypassed by quite a few subs on the market. They were great in their day but overpriced. The orion subs are pretty good. If you want SPL, Digital Designs, Eclipse Titaniums, Kove Audio, and the new Aura sub, are pretty much the best out there. There are others that use the same design.

i'm looking 4 a punchy bass not the hurricane in my car sound of my subs

Hey there Roland,
I'm guessing that you like clean Bass Vs loud Bass, I got the JLW3 line, Four 10s and sound wonderful. There really not to bad in price either.

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Chow
1998 SVT SilverFrost#2263 of 6535
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Honestly,Roland, if clean, accurate sound reproduction is what you want, Boston Pro's is the way to go, for your money.

i looked on the boston site and they do have some suppliers but the one i went 2 is only home theater stuff i got some rf punch 12's off u bid they r crap but they'll do until i sell my 15's and the 12's i've got sold 4 what i paid 4 em so till then i'm still on the search 4 the perfect sub.....rollin

im running 1 10inch jl-audio sub. the model is 10w3-d2 its a dual voice coil sub. its rated at 500 watts. im currentyly running my kenwood excelon amp to it that pushs 600 watts. i have my amp wired so that it is bridged to 600 watts but i only have the channel section at 2 channels so its pushing around 400 to 500 amps. don't ask me how i did it but it works.

Roland,

The Solo 12" is a good sub but needs a lot of power. 200 watts rms and more per sub.

Another good sub I left off is a JL 12". W? depends on how you plan to use the sub and how much power you have. Both the Solo and the JL need to be in properly designed boxes.

Still, the best SQ sub made is IDQ 12" v2.
It runs off whatever power you give it in various box sizes and types.

dnewma04,

Yeah the transfer function creates lower frequencies than a sub can produce in the car.

But if you study acoustics it would state, "if these frequencies are created from a source that does not produce these frequencies (subs that don't play to 20 Hz), they are the result of error". This error is created by the compounding of waves produced by the sub and the boundary of your vehicle interior.

For accurate sound let the speaker produce the frequencies and reduce the effect produced as a result of the transfer function. Hard and soft obstacles in your interior and treatments to your interior panels (boundary) can affect the response resulting from a vehicle transfer function.

On the other hand Boston Acoustics? subs rely on vehicle transfer function to produce lower frequencies and they do sound good in some vehicles. But if you modify your vehicle with deadening and other techniques you may find that same Boston to lack bottom end in the same vehicle.

I did a better job of modifying my transfer function in my first SVT.
As a result of stereo subs, woofers and this technique I could get accurate detailed bass and it would stage left or right and not just in the middle. You need 100% stereo or Left or Right paned mono recorded CD's to hear effect of Left or Right staged percussion including lower frequencies.
Yeah, most recordings do not have this. Most CD?s are nothing but mono mixed down to left and right, so all your bass is mono and the more detailed you bass the more you notice that its in the middle.

You say sub is mono, you don?t know if its left or right. If you are in a room with a bass drum playing you know where it is by loudness only, not time and loudness of arrivals as with higher frequencies. This is why most can localize on 80 Hz and above frequencies. But even 20 Hz sounds are louder at their source than they are on the other side of the room. Yeah the difference is small and you need to be able hear
20 Hz to know one position is louder than the other. I guess it depends on how far you want to go for life like sound.

You guys may think they are whack, but I chose the 10" Kenwood "Tornado type" subs for my Contour. I had to replace my ancient Fosgate Series Ones (anyone remember those?) My goal was to use up as little trunk space as possible (to avoid *itching from my girl) and to blend the music rather than blow everyone away. I currently have a RF 120@2 (thats right, 30Wx2RMS) running parallel (not bridged) and they kick *ss! They have high sensitivity and work very well in a small sealed box (.75) Plus, at 2 for $120 (US), you can't go wrong!

Anthony,

I'm in agreement with about 95% of your last post. No argument here. Most respectable 10" subs will have an F10 in the 20 hz range without any trouble and an F20 in the teens. with the transfer function (average 12 db per octave under about 60 hz or so) getting respectable levels of bass down to the low 20s is not out of the realm of possibility.

We could take this a step farther and say that no car can make a "real" 20hz signal because the wave could never mature because the car is not big enough.

Anyway, good post!

Dave