Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
There is a torx screw WAY back toward the driver that you gotta sorta feel for.



Yup...looks like I get to post another "How to!"

Here ya go! This will be long!

Ok...First off. Lets start by removing what you first described. This is called the paddle resonator for obvious reasons.

1. Go to your fave hardware store and look for a "pipe coupler" It is rubber with two band clamps on it. You want the 3" one.....or...Go to AutoZone and find their CAI couplers...

2. Remove the +/- cables from the battery

3. Loosen the clamps to the paddle resonator and the clip to the IAT sensor under it

4. Remove it from the holder that is on the front of the car...should slip out.

5. Hacksaw the paddle off the paddle res. From now on this will be called the "IAT tube"

6. Insert a paper towel into the opening and use a dremel and smooth off the excess ABS plastic from the IAT tube.

7. Inspect your work and clean any ABS plastic residue OUT OF AND AROUND the IAT tube.

8. Take your coupler and place it parallel to the IAT tube. If you got the one from your fave hardware store, you will find that the band clamp races line up to the plastic stops on the IAT tube. Remember, those are the stops that the rest of your intake system, at this part, rest against. Your ultimate goal is to install your coupler between these to stops.

9. Make an X and begin cutting out where your IAT sensor needs to poke thru and make a hole just big enough for the sensor.

10. Stretch the coupler over the IAT tube, install your clamps and tighten.

FIXED!!!!

PART 2

To remove the fender resonator

Tools needed...Torx bits, screwdriver, socket driver or socket and wrench set

1. Remove +/- cables from the Battery and remove the battery.

2. Remove the screw from the fuse box next to the battery...you just need this loose so that you can move it and position it around....be careful not to go crazy with the wires as they are pretty tight under the casing.

3. Turn the steering wheel to the left.

4. Note the orientation of the fender shroud. Remove the fender shroud...black plastic thing. It is held on with push clips that WILL GET DAMAGED...take lots of time with these. You will want to put this back on. There are two torx bit screws at the bottom under the front bumper and you will need to remove the bolts that hold the shroud to the firewall. These are located next to your brake line clamps. It is lightweight plastic so make sure you have removed all bolts and screws and push clips and wrestle it out of the car.

5. Inside, where the battery used to be is the air intake recepticle. It is held in place with torx screws. Remove this....or break it, which is what I did cuz one of the torx screws froze and it WAS coming out!

6. You will now see that there is a piece of ABS plastic that has an opening pointed towards the front of the car and goes up and over the tire and down to the front of the drivers side floor board. The pieces are push fit together. Slide them apart and begin removing them. Be careful not to "distort" or flex your fender moving this ABS piping around.

7. You will notice that the ABS tubing moves around real freely. Do not be deceived it does not just pop out. Hidden around and under the ABS plastic is another torx screw only bigger. Remove it and the unit will come out.

Do a happy dance....

8. Reinstall the fender shroud, you do remember how to orient it, right? Be careful to ease the push clips back in place. Attach all the extra hardware.

9. Fuse box install

10. Battery....Check all your connections again and hook your battery back up....

11. Impress yourself with the fact that you can hear air rushing in better..

Ok I think that bout covers it. Anyone for a milkshake...LOL

Any questions, PM me or email me at sosaudio1@earthlink.net

L8R
Rich

'04 Ecotec Cavi 140hp/150tq Fabbed intake. Header Coming, DRL's disabled, X-Drilled/slotted rotors coming....Man you really are fast. You were hauling a$$ when I passed you RB&LB causing problems in Huntsville