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Originally posted by RayL5480:
hey baby sho,it only uses 4 bolts,i must have dropped an extra bolt in there by accident.



Thanks.


1998 SVT
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I installed my shifter on Friday in about 45 minutes total. I love it!

This means I had it at the track on friday night when I ran the 13.82@108.59 MPH! I'm not saying the shifter helped because I was still surprised when shifting that it was already in gear when I was shifting and it may have cost me a moments concentration.
Either way it is way cool!

Thanks guys.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I have one of these that I won't be able to install and will let go. With plate.

Thanks

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I want it. I'll take it right away. Email me at BKap1180@postoffice.uri.edu. I want the shifter and the plate. Already have the money too so email me asap and I'll send it out to you. Thanks.

Brian


AIM...BKapp17 98 T-red SVT Steeda Gutted Pre-cats, no resonator Painted Dash Angel Eye Fogs Painted Chrome ring / headlights Looking for a t-red pre98 trunk lid
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You got a PM

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Finaly got my plate made up and my shifter installed! Works great and I even used the centering spring without any problems whatsoever For you guys with the 2000 SVT this is the way to go...it will not crack, break or leak. I used Y2KSVT's instructions and instead of using plexiglass I used a piece of .125 aluminum plate and a piece of .125 closed cell foam rubber for a gasket. If you have a 2000 SVT and are intersted in a plate PM me and we can work a deal.

With Y2KSVT's instructions as my guide here are the pic's I took throughout the install. You can also go to web page for the pic's and read the captions to each pic.


shifter ready to come out.


bottom of car with heat shield removed


shifter with Triax installed


this is the plastic bottom plate and foam gasket you reomve


here is my new aluminum plate and gasket


this is how it goes on the shifter


bottom of car with shifter in place


bottom of car with aluminum plate and gasket in place


new Triax shifter in car


Finished Steeda Triax Short Shifter install

What do you think?
Scott


Scott 2000 Contour SVT #1464 Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car" #1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 2002 F150 SuperCrew
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Scott,

I just started installing my shifter last night. What exactly needs to be disconnected to get the entire shift tower out. Do I just open the spring clip with a socket and pry outward the piece next to the centering spring to get rod out and lift the entire shift tower out? There is a rod coupling at the front/bottom of my shift tower and I wasn't sure how that gets disconnected. I don't want to break anything else (like the tabs that secure the ebrake boot).

Thanks,


George Hodge New: Volvo S60R Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150 DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe) BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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Originally posted by ghodge:
Scott,

I just started installing my shifter last night. What exactly needs to be disconnected to get the entire shift tower out. Do I just open the spring clip with a socket and pry outward the piece next to the centering spring to get rod out and lift the entire shift tower out? There is a rod coupling at the front/bottom of my shift tower and I wasn't sure how that gets disconnected. I don't want to break anything else (like the tabs that secure the ebrake boot).

Thanks,





Assuming you have it out of the car...spread the plastic fingers on the clip (careful they will break) and pull on the rod from the opposite side at the centering spring. Remove the 4 torx screws on the top and the shifter will pull right out of the housing.

When you put the new shifter in you will see that the bottom of the shifter is closer to the plastic plate on the bottom of the shifter housing. When the cable is attached it will rub. By removing the plastic plate and moving it to the outside (bottom of the car) you get the needed clearance to attach the cable.

Hope this answered your question.

Scott



Scott 2000 Contour SVT #1464 Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car" #1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 2002 F150 SuperCrew
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Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately I'm trying to figure out how you got the entire shift assembly out of the car before you disassembled it. How do you disconnect what looks like a rod or cable that goes to the front/bottom of the shift assembly?

Or is it as simple as just pulling up on the whole thing once I get it unbolted from the bottom of the car?

Thanks,


George Hodge New: Volvo S60R Old:2000 SVT Silver Frost 1188/2150 DMD, 75mm Pro-M, HPP rear strut tower bar Aussie 24mm sway bar (with boxed in subframe) BAT European Handling Kit, Brullen Y-pipe Performance Ford spherical bearing end links
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I wish I could help but it has been so long since I put the B&M in my car. I haven't install the steeda yet.


Just a Plain SE. AKA Big Country I maybe path914's B**** now, but wait until he needs his clutch done. We will see WHO is WHO's B**** then!
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