Loosen the lugs and drive it a few feet, thats a bit safer than removing them completely You can get anti-seize grease at most auto parts stores, slap that on the face of the rotor where the wheel touches.
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98 T-Red SE Sport ATX
ST200s
Slightly Lowered
Catless Y-Pipe
Resonator Removed
Clear Front Lenses
Side Markers
SVT Seats
Originally posted by cowgod: I set out this morning to replace my front brakes, and ran into a problem right away in that the front left wheel won't come off the car. It looks like the wheel and rotor are rusted together.
I doused it with PB Blaster, I pounded on it with a sledge, I pried it with a crowbar. After 3 hours, it still won't budge. Nothing seems to help. Anyone got any ideas?
You gotta remove the lug nuts...
1999 Sportage 4x4...don't go there, it was free
....______o_o
.../_l l__\____\
..|--l l__----[]\|/[]
.....................oo
=( )_)----( )_)--)_)
Seriously...I tapped the wheels w/ a heavy sledge real close to the hub where it was stuck (on a friends car) & that loosened them up...banging on the tire did absolutely nothing. Of course this was on the factory steelies.
1999 Sportage 4x4...don't go there, it was free
....______o_o
.../_l l__\____\
..|--l l__----[]\|/[]
.....................oo
=( )_)----( )_)--)_)
Originally posted by Eric Ford: Also one thing, on your studs there should be spiny looking washers,(on two of them) they are to help the wheel and hub from attaching.. I never knew this till I asked... now, if you have aftermarket wheels.. some shops remove those washer thingy's
Bzzzzz...wrong. There to hold the rotor onto the hub during assembly.
The wheel and hub tend to cold weld themselves together at the hub opening on the wheel. Antiseize is the only sure preventative. They can get really sticky without it in just a few weeks, trust me...
You can get anti-seize grease at most auto parts stores, slap that on the face of the rotor where the wheel touches. 
