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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 365
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 365 |
Originally posted by SVTFORME2:
I have a 2000 CSVT with about 43000mi and I am now experiencing the bucking problem. I did a search and I really am having a hard time following what everyone was discussing. I saw a post titled "Problem solved", but I really didn't see what the solution was. Has anyone found a solution that definitely works so that I won't have to spend thousands of dollars. Any help would be nice.
Here's a cut-and-paste of a reply I made this evening to another post ...
Here's what happened to my '98 CSVT ... and how it was fixed.
I had the engine "bucking" problem at low/no throttle similar to your problem and described in previous posts. It began with uneven accel and a change in the exhaust note, gradually worsened into a severe and re-creatable misfire-like condition (that did cause it to throw codes -- ultimately irrelevant -- and light up the CEL three times), then got to the point where the engine began to flat-out quit under load.
Because the car was at 54.8k, the basics were covered first: replaced fuel filter (Purolator), plugs and wires (Motorcraft). No money wasted -- but no fix, either.
Long story made short: the conscientious guys at the independent repair shop I've been using since my relo to Pittsburgh (Vince's Automotive on Rte 19 in Perrysville, for CEGer's in Pittsburgh) first rescanned the codes, then found a TSB that looked like a possible match with my problem: erratic engine performance triggering multiple codes. It was a match -- A 7-volt wire at the right-rear of the engine compartment, feeding power to 4 sensors, was being chafed at the right-rear engine lift mount; its sheathing had been worn through. Every time engine movement (or Dave, the tech at Vince's) brought it into contact with metal, the four sensors would freak, causing a misfire and/or kill the engine.
Sheathing was repaired; the chafing point of contact was covered with a short section of (I think) neoprene tubing; and the problem is gone.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 470
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 470 |
Thanks everyone for your help. Bucking problem is fixed. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced. My problem was when the gas tank is below half, the car begin to buck badly. Another problem solved! 
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,709
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,709 |
I know this post is old but I though tI would see if anyone could help me out. I have the same bucking problem, always when at 1/4 tank or less. Usually it is when I go to step on it she starts bucking like crazy and has almost got me killed when trying to pass on a 2 lane hiway. Thing is I had the fuel pump and sock filter replaced like 10K ago and the fuel filter, plugs and wires replaced all this summer. Do you think it could be a bad pump again? I bought it from auto zone and Had to pay to get it installed because I am at college and have to tools or equipment to work with. I swear Ford cannot make a reliable car if its life depended on it, but somehow I still love my car.  -frustrated
Originally posted by Chickens:
Religion can't do much for ashholes (unless you are an alterboy)
98.5 Se w/SVT mods
98 E0 SVT~ sold
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133 |
Originally posted by XKontour98:
I know this post is old but I though tI would see if anyone could help me out. I have the same bucking problem, always when at 1/4 tank or less. Usually it is when I go to step on it she starts bucking like crazy and has almost got me killed when trying to pass on a 2 lane hiway. Thing is I had the fuel pump and sock filter replaced like 10K ago and the fuel filter, plugs and wires replaced all this summer. Do you think it could be a bad pump again? I bought it from auto zone and Had to pay to get it installed because I am at college and have to tools or equipment to work with. I swear Ford cannot make a reliable car if its life depended on it, but somehow I still love my car. -frustrated
This probably sounds like a broken record but here goes; the Contour engines are very plug sensitive, and what's weird is the plug problem normally takes a while to develop, so it's not a problem that your mind brings up, since normally new plugs help tune-ups. But in the case of the Zetec and the Duratec, the plugs can go bad a month or two after they're installed. You must have the Motorcraft, fine wire, low resistance plugs, and you need to be very, very careful when installing them, since for some reason unknown to me they're very easy to break. And even then it takes days, weeks or months for that problem to rear it's ugly head. I had the same problem 6 weeks after installing new Autolites, then again 3 days after installing another set of new Autolites, then again a month after installing 4 new Motorcrafts. The Motorcrafts were the correct plug, but I cracked the insulators as I installed them. How I do not know, but they were definitely cracked. I paid the dealer $160 to diagnose the problem, but so far, so good, no bucking. But before you go any farther, check your plugs, if they're not Motorcrafts get them, if they are new Motorcrafts pull em out and look at the insulaotrs, they may be cracked. Hope this helps.
Ken, 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec Atx, polished alloys, Kumho's, Pioneer hi power CD/AM/FM. Factory spoiler (added) Audi side lites, Borla stainless steel muff. Stolen, recovered in pieces. Looking for another Tour, preferably V6, 5 speed.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,709
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Thanks for responding, When I did the tune up this summer I spent alot of money and bought 9mm ford racing wires and bostch platnum 4plus sprak plugs. I would hope that by paying more for "better quality" plugs/wires i wouldnt have this problem. And if it were any of the aspects you mentioned why would it only happen when its at or below a 1/4 tank of gas? thanks-Doug
Originally posted by Chickens:
Religion can't do much for ashholes (unless you are an alterboy)
98.5 Se w/SVT mods
98 E0 SVT~ sold
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408 |
Originally posted by XKontour98:
why would it only happen when its at or below a 1/4 tank of gas?
When a car is exposed to repeated temperature changes around the dew point and the tank is usually left below half full, condensation inside the tank causes rust and creates lots of debris in the tank. In other words, the new pump may have sucked up enough preexisting crud to plug it up again. This is less likely to happen in say, California or Florida. There will always be some particulate fallout from the gas itself, but not the large ammounts of rust solids.
If in doubt, check fuel pressure.
You can clean the intake screen and discard or clean the sock since the pump is most likely fine.
Take the time to clean the tank out, and keep more gas in it.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 133 |
Originally posted by XKontour98:
Thanks for responding, When I did the tune up this summer I spent alot of money and bought 9mm ford racing wires and bostch platnum 4plus sprak plugs. I would hope that by paying more for "better quality" plugs/wires i wouldnt have this problem. And if it were any of the aspects you mentioned why would it only happen when its at or below a 1/4 tank of gas? thanks-Doug
I've had Bosch, Autolite and Motorcraft plugs in my car. Only the Motorcrafts will run without it missing, FYI, Ken
Ken, 99 Silver Frost SE Zetec Atx, polished alloys, Kumho's, Pioneer hi power CD/AM/FM. Factory spoiler (added) Audi side lites, Borla stainless steel muff. Stolen, recovered in pieces. Looking for another Tour, preferably V6, 5 speed.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 460
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 460 |
i ahd that problem... new wires and plugs fixed it for me.
Lexus ES300
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,746
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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The Bosch +4s are crap, at least in our cars. Get the motorcraft.
Originally posted by NickP:
The problem is the circular filter on the fuel pump sump. Earlier tours do not have this type of fuel pump. Ford went to a returnless system mid 99 or 98. I solved the problem on my 2000 se sport be removing the circular filter. There is still a sock type filter on the fuel pump, and the in line fuel filter for the engine. You will have to drop the tank to get at the fuel pump. Remove the pump sump from the tank and remove the circular filter. These things seem to clog every 30 to 40,000 miles.
Nick P
The problem is, the pump burns up after running with the clogged screen for a long period of time, so in many cases(such as mine) removing the screen does nothing. Also, YOU DO NOT NEED TO DROP THE TANK!!!!Check the how to section for the easy way to remove the pump.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 937
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 937 |
Buy 2 cans of Berryman's fuel injector cleaner. Use one with
a full tank and then another with the next tank. You can
also try Redline.. but don't mix the two brands.
Most of the time when you have problems at 1/4 tank it's
the fuel pump. You might want to also replace the Fuel
filter. Get the Motorcraft plugs because the Bush plugs
have been known to cause problems..
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