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Originally posted by The_Robinator:
Now that I think about it - the last fix that the mechanic did (the Throttle Control Switch) *did* seem to be the solution.....until this week of wet, sticky, tropical weather. Thoughts? 
Wet weather will wreck havic on bad spark plug wires. Do you know how old the wires are??
I would also be a little cautious due to all the codes you have been getting. It seems that there is a problem and it is triggering all of these other codes. Either that, or your mechanic is taking you for a ride.
The key thing you should check is the Air/Fuel ratio which consists of the intake and fuel systems to see if anything is wrong there. Next would be the ignition system. Your problem will probably be found in these areas. These are very complex systems to diagnose, so you might want to find a trusty mechanic or dealer (gasp) and have them run some tests.
1998.5 E1 SVT Contour #5482/6535
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What is an IAC valve, and what are the costs involved in repair/replacement if that's the problem?
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Jason - when (if EVER) did you replace the wires?
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IAC Valve - Idle Air Control Valve.
You can look around for it here in the forums - plenty of instructions and descriptions of it....
However, re-thinking this, I will have to agree with Ed. Plug wires are pretty damn tricky especially in the rain and if they're on their way south.
quick test - start the car - hopefully this is one of those times that is stays running.
Open teh hood and have some water with you.
Spill a little bit of water around the boots of the wires and around the coil pack (near the passenger side of the vehicle..back of the engine bay). if the car sputters or stalls, you have your problem.
Replace the plugs and wires...if the problem persists, replace the coil pack
Hugo
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98 SVT - 53k mi - SOLD
04 Mazda3 S 5-Dr
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I will try that test next time I get the car running without stalling out, and after I get the Contour Enthusiasts Light code pulled at AutoZone tomorrow (not going to have my regular mechanic pull the code lest he be screwing me all along).
And, fyi everyone, Jason never changed any wires....he bought the car at 27,000 miles and now it's 106,000+
I'll uypdate once the test is complete and the codes are pulled.
Thanks!!!!
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Hugo - it always stays running, as long as I don't shift out of PARK....will your water-splash test still work if I keep it in PARK?
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Originally posted by The_Robinator:
Hugo - it always stays running, as long as I don't shift out of PARK....will your water-splash test still work if I keep it in PARK?
It'll work regardless of being in park or in gear.
Make it idiotproof, and they'll make better idiots.
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Originally posted by The_Robinator:
Hugo - it always stays running, as long as I don't shift out of PARK....will your water-splash test still work if I keep it in PARK?
If there's a problem with plug wires the problem will be all the time reguardless of what gear you are in.
It is possible that the IAC valve intermittently open when you select the transmission out of park. When in park or neutral the transmission doesn't load the engine. But when you go into drive or reverse the IAC valve is supposed to open to let more air into the engine to compensate for the load applied when the transmission goes into gear. If the IAC valve doesn't open the load applied to the engine can be enough to stall it if its just idling.
It's probably something in the transmission.
When in park the transmission hydraulic circut goes onto open loop and on some transmissions is actually shut off. ultamitely it prevents it from making pressure in the torque converter, but the pump section still moves oil throughout the trany for lubrication and cooling. The neutral switch is one of the switches and sensors that tells the computer the shift lever is in neutral or park so it commands a valve in the transmission to make the torque converter to stop making presure.
There is another feature of the transmission that "locks" the torque converter to give a more positive power transfer from the engine to the transmission for better fuel economy. This feature is electronically controlled by the computer which receives inputs from several sensors and switches, the neutral switch is one of them. When the system is working properly the torque converter will only lock when you are moving and usaully in the upper gears like drive and overdrive. If the torque converter locks while its in 1st gear and you are going slow the load applied to the engine can be enough to stall it, like leting the clutch out with a manual transmission if you are moving too slow for the gear you are in.
I have a feeling that the problem lies in a valve or sensor inside the transmission. These electronic units, once they start to act up, usually work ok when they are cool, but as they warm up their problems are aggrevated.
I suggest you take your car to a transmission shop that has experience dealing with Ford electronic controlled transmissions. They will have the equipment to hook up to the transmission to test and check the pressures and operation of the various valves and sensors while driving. This way hi=opefully while during the road test the problem will present itself.
Sorry I can't pinpoint a problem for you. But at least its another idea on an area to look at for troubleshooting.
I feel sorry for the people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, thats the best they're going to feel all day - former President Lyndon B. Johnson
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JSmith:
On my last car (a 94 Cavalier), I had a torque converter issue.....the familiar stalling-while-coming-to-a-stop problem. And it would only act up whil the car was hot - let it all cool down, and it was okay. I simply had the torque converter disconnected, and the problem NEVER returned. Yes, I know that effects the gas mileage and such, but it did the trick on the old crappy car.
Would you think the same action might help here, assuming the torque converter *is* the culprit?
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And Jason, there are the words you have been waiting for all along: "It's probably something in the transmission."
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