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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284 |
Its a Simpsons quote...It wasnt an insult, I just didn't appreciate his condecending tone. And the SVT specific manual states that the SVT's crank is forged and couterbalanced, it does list this as a difference from the stock one.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by tbirdjayc:
Dude, Get Bent. Dont tell me what i do and dont know about cars. You dont have an SVT, your crankshaft is completely different (not forged, ie much weaker). I didn't "bang it on" I tapped it a couple times to get it flush. And if i damaged it, Id know about it by now. Damage to a high stress component like that doesnt go unnotticed long.
Wow I take back my ignorant comment on the other thread. You a simply a complete and utter moron. There is NO hope for a cure.
Every post I have seen you do if completely full of sh~t and has you talking out both ends of your ass. You honestly have no clue what the hell you are doing, talking about, or from appearance even meant to accomplish in the first place. 
I would tell you to go buy a clue, but I do not think there are enough in the world to even get you back to a level playing field.
BTW - like already stated. ALL DURATEC CRANKS ARE MADE THE SAME! The SVT engines have hand selected cranks. (I.E. the best tolerances of that particular batch) That is all.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284 |
Another internet tough guy ladies and gentlemen. You dont have to be such a jerk you know. If the manual says something, why would i think anything different? Im not ignorant, im just not in on all of fords little secrets like i guess you are. Sorry im not as privleged as you. And what posts are you talking about? I posted about getting a DMD...i got it, i put it on, it works. I posted about my fuel pump, I cleaned it, it works. The EECV thing was a misunderstanding on my part becuase the ODB2 website is such a POS i gave up reading it. So what, aside from getting beat on by you, have i done to piss you off?
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621
Redneck Troll
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Redneck Troll
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,621 |
Not only did you risk damage to the bearings and the rest of the crank, but... The most imediate damage would be to the snout of the crank, scoring it. Scoring makes it difficult to remove and install things for a little while, but it could also do something worse... like, make it easier to install a damper if enough material were removed from the crank during the tap on process. If enough material were removed, the damper would actually walk around on the end of the crank, wearing it out and making it useless in less than 20,000 miles or so.
What's it take to do it right? Less than $10 in hardware from the local hardware store. I'm not saying that I've never tapped a damper on back in high school (Trans Am crank failed less than a year later along with a cracked damper), but now that I know what I'm risking, I'll tke the cheap way out and buy the bolt, nut, and thick washer.
http://www.bnmotorsports.com
"And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my CEG brothers. And you will know I am the Moderator when I lay my vengeance upon you."
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284 |
Fine, then I did it wrong. Thats all i was driving for was a reason. All i heard prior was "your probably damamged your crank" what does that mean exactly? So now I know. To be honest, It wouldnt be the worst thing if it goes in 10k miles. I'll put the old damper back on (sans tapping) and get a new engine for my $100 deductible. As for the snout, when i got the DMD on far enough for the old bolt/washer to be used to push it on, it was just as hard to get on as it was to get off, so at least it looks like im ok there.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
tbirdjayc, man! I never expected things to get out of hand like this. I'm ALMOST sorry I put in my post, but I felt pretty strongly about making folks aware of potential damage. I do regret the "post stress" for you & others. At any rate, enjoy your new DMD. It'll be money well spent on a nice SVT. 
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by tbirdjayc:
Well mine seems to be fine, I guess I must have a magic hammer...like thor. Besides, i have a warranty until 75k miles, if it goes Ford can replace it for me free of charge.
Dude, it'll be fine. Those thrust bearings aren't going to just crush up like tinfoil.
You should see what those of us with 3L hybrids had to do just to get the damned taurus damper off, gigantic cheater bars, hammers, impacts...the list goes on.
If you did damage it you would have heard it by now I'd think, so you're probably in the clear.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284 |
Well that was my thinking too. I mean if the harmonic vibrations i was attempting to get rid of were really that bad, this thing should be able to stand up to a little tapping. Getting past all the BS and back to the topic though, the DMD is a great piece. My car runs smooth as silk now at any RPM. Makes my commute a lot quieter.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,502
Flaming Biker Dude
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Flaming Biker Dude
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,502 |
main reason you do not want to hit the DMD is because the hub is cast metal...and prone to breaking if you apply impact force to it, the reason you need to install it with the proper tool is because the threads inside your crank are soft and are prone to stripping when you use the bolt to press it on, next thing is you are supposed to be torquing the bolt, and if you have pulled the damper on with theis bolt you have already stretched it...so proper torque reading is not possible.
People suck.
Rev it till it MELTS.....
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 284 |
I used the OLD bolt and washer to push it on, I used a NEW TTY bolt and washer once it was on, to tighten it.
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