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Originally posted by tbirdjayc:
... no matter what gear i put it in and had my foot on the brake, the pulley still turned back a few degrees when loosening it, and the same when tightening it. Second, i did not have a longer bolt, so i had to use a block and mallet just until the pulley was seated enough for the old bolt to be used as a tightener.




For everybody elses future reference, My Duratec had an access panel for the starter flywheel that is very easy to get to. I just jambed a tire iron into the teeth to prevent the engine from turning & it worked very well. The Haynes Manual also suggested this technique.

Using a block or hammer of any kind is not a great idea - especially on an aluminum block engine. I just turned in my original bolt & used 2 screwdrivers to kinda wiggle the DMD into place. A thiner washer would have done even better here - just enough to get the big washer on. I coaxed the new DMD onto the crank this way just far enough to add in the big washer & proceeded to seat it into place. After I got the DMD flush, I installed my new bolt to the appropriate torque specs.

Please, don't hammer on your crank.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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I think the flat 6 is intrinsically well balanced like the I6. 60 degree V6 (like Duratec) better balanced than 90 V6 (like GM pushrod 3.8) or V8 (90 degree best here) or I4/flat 4. I think a V12 or flat 12 is well balanced as well..


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Originally posted by TourDeForce:

For everybody elses future reference, My Duratec had an access panel for the starter flywheel that is very easy to get to. I just jambed a tire iron into the teeth to prevent the engine from turning & it worked very well. The Haynes Manual also suggested this technique.





Didn't see that one. Saw one in Haynes about ATX equipped cars having an access window for the speed sensor, or some such, but it didn't apply to the MTX cars, or so I recall. which TX to you have?


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I have the ATX slushbox. Now that you mention it, I think it did refer to ATX equipped cars, but I would have thought an access like that a good idea for all the Contiques.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Perhaps you can't on an MTX because of the clutch...

Wouldn't be good to get contaminants in there.

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Anyway, I ended up using the brake rotor in similar fashion.


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Seriously, what will a couple taps with a hammer do? This is a forged crank which get hit with 200hp explosions at a rate of 7000 a minute. You're telling me it will be damamged by a couple taps with a block and mallet?

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Ok guys, I'm been thinking about this for a while know and don't know what to do. I've been told by many people that the extra weight on the DMD will cause the car to loose power This is definately something i don't want. So I figured I'd go with a Unorthodox Racing Pulley since the gains are quiet nice . And I've been told by many performance gooroos that I have no fear of Harmonic whateva killing my engine because its only happens at tiny parts in the curve and they won't affect my engine. If anyone TRUELY knows what they are talking about, please reply. How many Tour's have gone bad due to Harmonic's any way?


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I put on a DMD and the difference is night and day. I had to keep looking at my speedo for days afterwards because the engine ran so smoothly that I was speeding inadvertantly due to the less vibration. makes you want to keep the revs higher to keep the secondaries open.

My 2 cents...


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Originally posted by SVTCuervo:
Ok guys, I'm been thinking about this for a while know and don't know what to do. I've been told by many people that the extra weight on the DMD will cause the car to loose power This is definately something i don't want. So I figured I'd go with a Unorthodox Racing Pulley since the gains are quiet nice . And I've been told by many performance gooroos that I have no fear of Harmonic whateva killing my engine because its only happens at tiny parts in the curve and they won't affect my engine. If anyone TRUELY knows what they are talking about, please reply. How many Tour's have gone bad due to Harmonic's any way?




You need to do some searching of your own. If these crank problems are mere anomolies...why did Ford make them a stock item on all Mondeos? Further..it has been shown over and over on this board by the number of crank/rod failures that the engine has some problem. Further further...the "power loss" of a mere 1lb on the crank is minimal...easily offset by a Fridenza or lightened flywheel...and is much cheaper than a low-end rebuild. Also remember...rotational weight may "rob" power at the begining of spin-up, but it stores that energy in the form of rotational mass (remember the law of physics...an object in motion will stay in motion until another force is applied to it...my paraphrase)...making the transition of off-to-on throttle smoother.

Ducati had the same problem. People were lightening their cranks..confusing the lazy power delivery of the twin with a shreiking 4 cylinder. The cranks were running into harmonic imbalance..and causing failures.

I look at the DMD the same way I look at Mobil-1...not required, but cheap insurance for engine longevity.

Also look here...the 2nd post...I know its about flywheels but the inertia idea is the same:

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=363212&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1

This contains some of the idea I was trying to express above...

Last edited by mcgainer; 07/30/03 12:36 PM.
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