Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec anyone with real answers for 95 swap?

I can't seem to find info for 95 3.0L swaps. Certainly nothing definitive. I know AirKnight has done it but his web site never works so I can't read his how-to. My engine skill to date include a simple vw 1.8 liter so I want to make this as simple as possible. I want to know the bare minimum to get a 3.0L hybrid running in my car. I won't consider MAF's, larger injectors, extrude honning, cams, etc (unless neccessary) until the bare minimum is running smoothly. Can anyone help with some proven answers

Thanks everyone, ceg rules!

I got answers
1. Unless you swap computers, you better plan on getting a custom chip burnt.
2. Use the 2.5 intakes for the least stress.
3. stock 17lb injectors are a little slim for a 3L hybrid. For you to upgrade injectors, you have to upgrade lowers, due to the fact that you have a side feed injectors. That brings in a few more problems. You then have to switch the operation of the secondaries since you have vacuum operated ones. 95 was the only year with this. So you can gut them our try to retro fit the secondaries into the new lower. Next if you get different injectors you will need the fuel rail and injector harnesses to splice in.
4. Basic is basic but there are many things to do while the engine is out i.e clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl., gut precats( you dont have to worry about downstream 02 sensors since you have a 95), heads if you have the money or atleast svt heads and cams. Plus in the future you can add mafs' tb's and so on but its a pain to add heads, so plan your money right... ummm I think thats it theres more if you have any other qwuestions just ask and I'll do my best to reply. Airknight isnt around much anymore since he blew up his motor.. Get it tuned before you go over 3k rpms once you get it in!!!!

Ah, I love it when someone knows from experience. Thanks for your response. I may take you up on your offer for further questioning. For now I have enough to ponder.

Actually...

What really gets me about all this is the electronics. I have a computer science degree but I know $*!# all about chips etc. Is it trully easier to do a hybrid on a 95 or would it be better to use as much 3.0L as I can (i.e. heads, UIM, LIM, injectors, computers....)??

At some point in my life I would love to be able to do all the cool stuff like adjust my air/fuel ratio using a MafturBurner while driving (how formula one is that!!) but for now I better keep it real. I know the hybrid puts out more power with it's higher compression and all but I would forgoe that if it would keep life simpler to put in the longblock.

Thanks.

Ok so some investigation revealed that:

"Some say to use the 3 liter ECU and engine wiring harness, but to my knowledge no one has pulled this off as of yet and it seems to be more trouble than it's worth as that ECU is set up to run a totally different vehicle."

onward:

Originally posted by 3LPOWER:

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You then have to switch the operation of the secondaries since you have vacuum operated ones. 95 was the only year with this. So you can gut them our try to retro fit the secondaries into the new lower.

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so did you gut yours or what is the best options here from your experience. drawbacks and benefits?

Thanks, bare with me as I am taking my time with this and learning a lot

Ok change of direction. I gotta slow down with all this as I am in over my head. I think I will start with some of the more popular upgrades in preperation for the 3.0L. So I have a new set of questions.

1.) I want to upgrade my maf to 75mm (i already optimized mine but I assume it won't cut it for a 3.0L). Is this the size to go to and what cars can I pull it from (I know the SVT is larger than my 95 but there is not exactly a lot of SVT's around these parts, perhaps a taurus??). What all is involved asside from physically swapping the maf? I assume I would need the meter to go along with it? I already have a KKM and from what I hear it will still fit.

2.) Given the above I should look at a larger throttle body. Again, is this a straight swap and what cars can I pull one from besides SVT?

3.) Before a 3.0L comes into play I will need to upgrade my #17 injectors. Should I go #24? I believe these would come from a Duratec Taurus.

4.) At what point do I need a chip burned given the above? To get a chip burned do I simply phone someone up and give them my specs or do they have to put my car on the dyno because I don't imagine anyone in Winnipeg Canada is equiped to do this.

Thanks (bare with me I am learning)

.......oh yeah, how did AirKnight blow his engine? 3.0L related?

Question for you 3LPOWER. I read some of the posts about your taurus MAF but no conclusion was made regarding "the TPS voltages are different. It reads backwards!". Did you stay with the taurus maf by switching the wires around on the TPS? That would be some valuable information. I would imagine a used Taurus maf would be cheaper than a ProFlow (i think that's what it was called).

Thanks.

To get it to run right you have to use the stock maf because of the obd1 vs obd2 differentce, then get it tuned from there. Tuning is something that is usually custom to your car and they would need the car for it, the people I'm going to are in michigsn and do travel, their site is www.fordchip.com. As far as computers go, you cannot switch to the 3L computer because of PATS(passive anti theft system) designed by ford. If switching somputers you would need one form an svt, and it would be much much harder than getting a chip done. As far as full swap being easiest that is untrue because of the intake fabrications that need done. Definately for the easiest use the 2.5 intakes. I gutted my secondaries, and its almost a 50/50 split on who believes in it and who doesnt so that wil be up to you. With the TPS I used the 3L tb and tps to go with my 3L upper and hence had to rewire things. Once again itd be best to stick with an svt tb and tps for avoid problems. I think thats all the answers hit me up if you have more.
Later,
Derek

A2Steve dropped a straight 3L in a 95 Mystique ATX. No need to change computers/chips etc unless you want to harness a little more power.

hmm interesting, maybe i'm after that extra horsepower then! plus I have no egr system(I'm having that written out of my chip) ported [censored] 24lb injectors.. I find it weird he did a straight swap with no other mods i.e. fuel/spark

Straight swap no other mods might make it run fine still at part throttle (closed loop) since it uses O2 sensors to control fuel trim, but at wide open throttle there will likely be a less than perfect mixture, and if it happens to be on the lean side you could get some detonation in which case the computer would hopefully retard the timing enough to stop detonation based on knock sensor inputs, but this would likely reduce overall power potential. For best results, you need to re-map the fuel/ timing curves in the chip program for maximum power gains would be my thinking on it. Also it could be dangerous to have any detonation because at high rpm/WOT you can melt pistons (for sure if you have artificial aspiration)