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Thanks RogerB and GSRGuy for clarifying that rotor brand really doesn't matter. That's all the information I was looking for. I did follow one of your suggestions to get good pads, and hopefully my install goes smoothly and I have my SVT back on the road tomorrow. Originally posted by Todd TCE:
Perhaps others better was one which stopped the car shorter...
any stock size rotor of any manufacture is not likely to boost the 'performance of the brakes' in some manner equated to shorter stopping distances.
So you say better may be shorter stopping distances, and then you say rotors don't affect stopping distances... hmm...
"In the simplest of terms" I did read your second post, but you never answered the question about which specific rotor is better. If you want to babble on and on and contradict yourself why don't you start your own thread?
99 Silver CSVT #1081/2760
97 Nissan Altima
83 Corolla SR5 RWD bondo/rust body 'ghetto cruiser' RIP
78 Winnebago Minnie (Dodge Chassis 23') 440cid 4bbl.
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...I think the word "not likely" was used, so I don't see how he contradicted himself here.
Todd has a pretty good grasp on things.
I'd pay attention, though that's just me...
JaTo
e-Tough Guy
Missouri City, TX
99 Contour SVT
#143/2760
00 Corvette Coupe
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Originally posted by SVT_CT:
Thanks RogerB and GSRGuy for clarifying that rotor brand really doesn't matter. That's all the information I was looking for. I did follow one of your suggestions to get good pads, and hopefully my install goes smoothly and I
have my SVT back on the road tomorrow.
Originally posted by Todd TCE:
Perhaps others better was one which stopped the car shorter...
any stock size rotor of any manufacture is not likely to boost the 'performance of the brakes' in some manner equated to shorter stopping distances.
So you say better may be shorter stopping distances, and then you say rotors don't affect stopping distances... hmm...
"In the simplest of terms" I did read your second post, but you never answered the question about which specific rotor is better. If you want to babble on and on and contradict yourself why don't you start your own thread?
Maybe if you'd pull your panties out of your ass crack and listen, instead of taking things out of context. His direct quote was: Quote:
I'm simply pointing out that the term 'better' once again has different meaning to different folks. Your post here is the first to define what YOU feel is better. Perhaps others better was one which stopped the car shorter, had plating on it, or even has special drilled holes for black magic looks.
Meaning "better" is defined by different people different ways, and you didn't define "better" until AFTER you got your panties in a wad reading todd's very reasonable response. Now a person may FEEL that their new bLiNgIfIeD rotors stopped the car better, but if you again would listen to what Todd is saying, there is very little you can do with a rotor all by itself, short of making it larger diameter (more braking torque) or heavier (more heat capacity) or both, that will make the car ACTUALLY stop better. Ever heard of "placebo effect"?
All that said, for standard-size brake duty I find the best, north-american brand name rotors I can find, because I trust the material and manufacturing better than offshore stuff, and I make sure they're cast true (with the fins evenly spaced between the friction surfaces), and use good pads. The PADS make the biggest difference.
Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6
â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94
Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101
Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion
KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
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Why dont YOU read my previous post and see that I decided to purchase good pads and now know that rotors don't really make a difference? Seems like you butt buddies both enjoy babbing on like a bunch of [censored].
99 Silver CSVT #1081/2760
97 Nissan Altima
83 Corolla SR5 RWD bondo/rust body 'ghetto cruiser' RIP
78 Winnebago Minnie (Dodge Chassis 23') 440cid 4bbl.
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I'll appologize for us both babbling on about things that I'm sure a few people got some education out of. Looking back we discussed a number of things and the whys and hows. Sorry for attempting to expand your limited intellect. I'll make it a point of ignoring your questions in the future and ask you do the same to my posts.
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99 Silver CSVT #1081/2760
97 Nissan Altima
83 Corolla SR5 RWD bondo/rust body 'ghetto cruiser' RIP
78 Winnebago Minnie (Dodge Chassis 23') 440cid 4bbl.
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Posts: 4,397
b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
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Woah there chief! No reason to get snotty!
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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So how does one increase brake boost per foot to pedal input. One way I know works all the time and that is to change that dark brake fluid with come new clear clean brake fluid.
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Originally posted by TheGSRGuy:
Rotors are rotors. The majority of rotors are all the same so don't worry about that. Put your money into getting good pads.
This is true for all rotors except FORD ROTORS.
FORD Rotors won't last for more than 1500 miles on my Contour.
I went through 2 sets of FORD rotors in less than 20,000 miles.
Replaced them with set of Bendix rotors and never looked back.
Pete...
2004 Mercury Marauder 300A
Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER
DOB 10/31/2003
DOP 1/2/2004
www.mercurymarauder.net
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...which brings us back to what is a better brand of rotor. You guys are being too complex about it. This is a simple question of what company makes rotors that are better than all the rest of them. We all know there are rotors that you can practically watch the rust eat them away. There are also rotors that are inferior in other ways...like stock Fords'. Who's got the good ones?
Simple question that I (and perhaps some others)understood right off.
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