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Love my setup, hate the way it sounds from the outside.. I've got a Pioneer 12" sub in a sealed box, and it positively rattles the outside of the car.. Applying some glue goo between my license plate and the plate holder stopped that from rattling, but there's still a ton of noise. What's the best way to get rid of this?
I've seen posts about Dynomat and stuff, I'm totally unfamilar with the product, is that what it's intention is to do? Any pics from anyone that's gone this route? Thanks.
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Dynmat is a somewhat thin rubberish material that absorbs noise and reduces the flexing of the metal. You can get it in a spray for or in sheets. I used 2.5 cans to spray the reack lid, floor, wheel wells, and sides of the trunk. and about 1.5 sheets of 18"x24" It defiantly makes a big differance.
Jim NY Mets World Champions in 2002 2000 Black Contour SVT #53 of 2150 17" Konig Traffic w/Nitto 450 Borla Cat Back Zaino MB Quart and Shiva
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Dynamat is an asphalt based sheet material that is applied to body panels and such. The basic theory is that adding mass to a body panel will dampen vibrations. Fine for small applications, but it gets expensive (and very heavy) for large applications such as the trunk. I used dynamat on my floor pan and door panels (and under the rear deck) with good success, but I used a different route for my trunk:
Gut your trunk (remove all asthetic things from it, leaving only what's bolted in). Then remove the rear seat backs and newpaper off the entire opening between the trunk and the passenger compartment, making sure air cant circulate in. Then paper off the compartment that houses the power antenna motor and place tape over the "thing" on the opposite side of the trunk. Lift up the wiring along the bottom of the trunk and leave it suspended in the air. Pop out the rubber grommets (should be 6) and tape over the plastic ones. Use a scotchbrite pad to go along the trunk and rough it up a bit, then wipe the whole thing down with a good cleaner (window cleaner or something). Make sure the entire back half of the outside of the car has a drop cloth and newspaper over it. Then use about 4 cans of duplicolor truck bed liner and spray everything down. Do one can at a time, leaving 10 minutes between coats. You'll want safety glasses and probably a paint mask (otherwise you'll kill half the brain cells in your head). Try using a shop vac in blow mode and stick the hose in the trunk after each can. That'll evacuate the fumes quickly. Once all is done, let it dry for a few hours, and then use regular dynamat on the inside of the spare tire well, and on the strut towers, and also use some super dynamat (called dynamat extreme now) on the inside of the trunk lid). After all that's done, your trunk should be nice and quiet on the outside. Also, the texture bed liner will keep that cheap-ass floor piece from sliding around anymore (and also get rid of the primer color if yours is like mine was).
I'll try to get some pics posted of the results soon.
\'94 Cobra #4963/5009, black on black, not quite stock Formerly owned a black '00 SVT, #1972 Join the SVTOA! RIP - Ray "Old Fart Emeritus" McNairy
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I had Dynamat installed on my doors. Like Steve said, it gets expensive. But I think that it was well worth it. My door panels don't buzz at all and there is less road noise coming in.
For a little less money (I think), there are the aerosol sound dampeners on the market (e.g., Rockford Fosgate). I believe the only problem with them is that the nozzle on those products tend to clog easily.
[This message has been edited by Reg E (edited August 28, 2000).]
Reggie Wallace '98.5 SVT (E1) - Silver Frost #5450 out of 6135, born-on date: 4/1/1998 ...I wouldn't want to bore you with my mod list :-)
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I have used Dynamat as well as less (very less) expensive roofing materials to accomplish the same thing. I have use doriginal in the trunk as well as the less expensive stuff. I have used Super on the 4 doors it is nice and thin. I have used spray noise killer on the inside of the doors for more sound proofing. Trunk lid strut towers do the rear deck lid under the carpeting on the inside of the car also do the trim pieces behind the seats they rattle bad. I have will post photos of some of my work here later today. Dan http://
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stupid question differnet, but is that a stock woodgrain dash, or is that aftermarket. If so, where did you get it, and how much did that cost? Thanks ------------------ AJ M. Mmies8646@rowan.edu take away capital M above for email http://elvis.rowan.edu/mieskola MODS: Cerwin-Vega Door Speakers JVC CD Head Unit JBL GTQ220 Amplifier Sony 2540 Amplifier Kenwood 8" Dual Voice Coil Sunwoofer JL Audio 8W3 Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer
1999 Ford Contour LX ATX Color: Black Engine: 2.0 Liter Zetec
MODS: Cerwin-Vega Door Speakers Kenwood CD Head Unit Alpine V12 Amplifier Polk Audio 12" Subwoofer 16x7 Motegi MR12's in Silver 205/55/16 Goodyear Eagle RS-A's
Soon:
SVT Body Kit Forced Induction
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That's the Mystique's stock dash. Looks to be from a 98.5, right? Think they changed the HVAC controls slightly in 99 to match the 'tours controls. Car looks good, wish I had taken some pics of my Mystique when I still had it (only ones I have are of the paint cracking problems) 
\'94 Cobra #4963/5009, black on black, not quite stock Formerly owned a black '00 SVT, #1972 Join the SVTOA! RIP - Ray "Old Fart Emeritus" McNairy
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That is stock for the 98.5 what model year do you have? I may be able to get you one from the local scrap yard if you are interested I think he was looking for 30 for it. LEt me know Dan
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Check out www.partsexpress.com they have a dynamat alternative that is about 1/3 the cost of dynamat and by all acounts, just as effective.
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