Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction How many miles do people have since their turbo in

If you are just concerned about the engines ability to take forced induction in general, I'll chime in as well. If not, you dont have to read this

My car has about 40K miles w/ the vortech supercharger. Engine still runs fine (runs to nearest source of wood!)

Thanks guys for all the useful info. I didn't know that the water to air system has a heat exchanger mounted in front. That definitely explains why it would work during constant duty.

Also Warmonger, AZ IS HOT I agree! I lived there for a year back in '96-97 (in Mesa area), and it sure DOES get hot there. I remember once it got up to 122 deg F in August for a few days in a row! Definitely good reason to keep your air charge temp cooled.

So basically, the trick here is to re-map the fuel and timing curves on the chip with these kits exclusively? I guess 'back in the old days' when I was into 5.0 mustangs (before we could easily reflash eeproms like we can now), the big trick everyone would use to control timing advance was a boost retard device (an add on module) that would retard timing based on how much boost you had. And to counteract the pressure differential of intake pressure vs fuel rail pressure, there were also little units (variable valves) that would hook up to the return line going back to the tank that would gradually close off the return line based on how much boost you were producing to counter this pressure differential. Like say if you had 10psi in the intake manifold under boost, that would fight against the 39psi in your fuel rail (thus making less fuel flow under boost at any given inj pulse width), this valve could be adjusted to close the return line a bit under boost so it would effectively bump up the fuel line pressure from 39psi to 49psi to counteract that 10psi of boost pressure in the intake. It could even be adjusted higher yet just to supply an even richer mixture if necessary under boost conditions IF NEEDED (like I said, we all used to run stock computers with our built motors so manipulating the computer around it's stock program was the key to survival). Now in theory this sounds like a good device, but I've never seen one in action first hand as I've never ran boost before in a non-OEM application (only read the data and seen guys at the track with them). I would still think that the fuel valve I just spoke of would be necessary even for newer cars like our Contours, even with new chip caliberations afterwords as well just to further fine tune it. And with valves like these, you don't have to crank up your injector pulse width as much to compensate for the pressure differential, so then you don't need to install higher flowing injectors (until you get up to the REALLY high output applications). Do the turbo kits come with any type of fuel pressure correction device?

Did you know that the most automakers change fuel pressure via manifold vacuum to compensate for fuel pressure vs intake manifold pressure? So why would it be hack to further compensate fuel psi under pressures above atmospheric as well (i.e. boost). So your saying that the automakers have hacked our cars? The real hack way is to keep the fuel pressure always set at one fixed point and only change pulse width to compensate for the differential. To each his own I guess? I still think I would rather have the pressure diff compensated physically at all times. Then you could leave the factory's fuel curve more like stock. But what do I know? Maybe the factory's way is the wrong way?

Plus, it seems to me that you would want to increase the fuel pressure to keep your nice injector spray pattern (and better atomization), having a 39psi fuel line psi with 10psi boost would be a 10psi differential, so that would be like the same as effectively LOWERING your fuel line psi to 29psi (at atmospheric psi) I would think(?), and that would affect the way the injectors spray I would think as well. I would rather boost the fuel pressure the same according to boost so your 'net' psi will always stay constant. This is just my logic on it. Maybe there is a good reason not to do it this way? I'm no engineer

Like I said before, I was no engineer here. I did not know the whys, nor did I once claimed that I knew it all, ever. I mostly work on bone stock cars all day everyday, and occasionally once in a blue moon, hopped up hotrods (like the Evo the other day) but I by no means tinker with turbos everyday. I must be flexible in my knowledge and know a lot about a wide range of things that can go wrong on a car. I also run a part time computer repair business and I must stay brushed up on that knowledge as well. I do quite a bit of reading about all things to try and gain knowledge and stay on top of everything, but it is hard to know too much about all things. And I've recently been studying up more on the current way you guys are doing things in the hotrod world today (since I'm a few years behind the latest tech). For this reason I present my viewpoints and opinions, and I'm sorry if they sometimes bring out emotions in people as this is never my intention. I'm just here like you guys trying to learn about stuff. I don't know it all, as that's why I was here trying to clarify WHY you guys prefer bigger injectors. And thanks to you and Warmonger's explainations, I now know why it is done this way NOW. I'm sure I would just go with the setup EXACTLY the way Street Flight would recommend it anyways, because they have done all the R&D testing. But I just wanted to know why. So I'm sorry my words always make people get pissed at me.
Anyways, thank you all for any info you gave me

Hey don't forget that you can't even HACK a returnless car...

You can only do it the right way the first time.