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you dont have to upgrade to a 3.0L, but if you have money to spend, go for it! Yes the battery does have to be relocated to the trunk, but SF supplies some 4 guage wire (I think) for the relocation. A K&N comes with the kit. Only thing i would upgrade would be the exhaust since the stock exhaust is a big restriction.

the SF turbo kit is a bit more expensive, but it will put out just as much if not more power plus LOTS more tq. Not to mention your making more power through out the rev range as compared to the Vortech where your making peak hp at redline.


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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gotcha, i have upgraded to 2 40 series flowmasters and got rid of my resonator, would you recommend a full catback instead or could i just add on a y-pipe?


Contour is SOLD 97 GST eclipse is SOLD 2002 S2K...
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If it was one or the other the y-pipe is far more restrictive. If you can do both, do both.


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Do either the Brullen catback and y or true duals forgoing the flowmasters. Baffled chamber mufflers are bad for turbos - get some straight through design mufflers. As in the Brullen kit (from performance fords) or magnaflow.


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war...would you buy a car, handmade or not, with spot weld marks all over it? I mean the prototype...first couple kits...ok, but this thing has been out long enough to get things together and make it look cleaner. You said it yourself, your kit is custom and contains a lot of 1 of parts and non-produced prototypes. But the everyday kit should look cleaner. People give tom flak about the cost of his kit too, but at least it looks clean and stock.

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spot weld marks? I haven't seen any spot weld marks.


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Originally posted by LuckySVT:
Hey, thanks for all the input guys. So most of you would recommend to me the Street turbo kit rather then the race turbo kit? Also if i were to purchase the street turbo kit, what else would i need to upgrade to also? A 3L? Im guessing i will need to move my battery to the trunk and get a new intake? So the street kit would cost about 5000?
Do you think it will lay out as much horsepower as the supercharger made for our vehicles?





Hmmm, where have I heard all of these questions before..........

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Originally posted by tbirdjayc:
war...would you buy a car, handmade or not, with spot weld marks all over it? I mean the prototype...first couple kits...ok, but this thing has been out long enough to get things together and make it look cleaner. You said it yourself, your kit is custom and contains a lot of 1 of parts and non-produced prototypes. But the everyday kit should look cleaner. People give tom flak about the cost of his kit too, but at least it looks clean and stock.




I would if power was my concern. Then I'd get off my lazy ass and polish up the spot welds so it'd look a little cleaner and customize it a bit more so it had a little more of "me" into it.

disclaimer:
(sorry if I sound rough, I'm a soldier, whaddayou expect? And drunk tonight to boot.)


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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that's cool dude. I've been drinkin tonight too. I've always been about function over form myself. that's why I have pvc in my engine bay right now.


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Originally posted by The Ripper:
that's cool dude. I've been drinkin tonight too. I've always been about function over form myself. that's why I have pvc in my engine bay right now.




Bwahahahah!

I love it!
Yes, I totally agree with that statement...you do what you gotta do to get the job done. There's always some good driver out there who makes the most out of his little engine
(read:DemonSVT) and can put a hurtin on you if you don't pack extra cc's and exta pressure to shut 'em down!




Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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