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Post says it all, well almost. I have read in a couple of places the reccomendation to paint the hat to keep it form rusting when istalling new rotors. I would prefer a clearcoat, not interested in a color. What would be best to use and can I just mask off the rotor surface when I spray. Specifically they are Stazzi's Autospeciality rotors. Also, does it need to be heat resistant (what temp?), and any other questions that would be good and or important to ask at this particular juncture that I have not asked  . Thanks in advamce amd sorry for the lengh.
| 1999 SVT E1 | silver | 147 of 2760
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Originally posted by stunts: Post says it all, well almost. I have read in a couple of places the reccomendation to paint the hat to keep it form rusting when istalling new rotors. I would prefer a clearcoat, not interested in a color. What would be best to use and can I just mask off the rotor surface when I spray. Specifically they are Stazzi's Autospeciality rotors. Also, does it need to be heat resistant (what temp?), and any other questions that would be good and or important to ask at this particular juncture that I have not asked . Thanks in advamce amd sorry for the lengh.
I've never seen a clearcoat, high-temp paint, at least not yet. You should be looking for either the brake caliper paint at the local PEP BOYS or the like, or get the flat black BBQ high temp paint at the local Lowe's/Home Depot.
I don't think it's necessary to mask off the rotor if you're painting them off the car, as the brake pads will wear off any paint applied to the rotor braking surface. If you're concerned about rust, you should try to paint the edges of the rotors as well, but keep in mind the rotors will still rust from the inside, since there is no way to get any type of paint or plating in there.
dion
98 SVT, 200 whp/190 lb. ft tq (tuned by ADC), 3.0, P&P heads w/2.5L valves, optimized TB, MSDS, SCA 2.5" catback, SHOshop UIM/LIM, underdrive pulley set, TD's, Koni/H&R, BAER/TCE, Progress, CF1 products
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I cleaned 'em with spray parts cleaner, made sure they were dry and painted with a satin finish high temp black. I sprayed the entire rotor - the pads wiped the friction surface clean. Been over 2 months and they still look great.
AL
Red '98 SVT E0 3098/6535
DMD
other stuff
and a Bullitt fuel door
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I just did my new ones, used black semi-gloss engine enamel and masked off the rotor's brake surfaces by using short strips of inch and a half masking tape and going slow. I don't wanna leave paint crap on the new pads.
Spray several times, letting them dry in between. Previously, I cleaned 'em with brake cleaner and a really clean rag to get the Cosmoline protectant off.
Clear shellac won't work, as it isn't hi-temp resistant. Sure be nice to get them cad plated... oh well.
ZZZ.
'99 SVT black/blue #871
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On my Mustang I used high-temp (1200 degree) Aluminum colored paint. On our GTP, I used high-temp black semi-gloss. Both have held up great, with track duty on the Mustang to boot.
Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6
â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94
Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101
Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion
KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
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I used the 1200 degree aluminum-colored paint on my rotors. It is possible to get to most of the interior vanes if you spray the edge. On the fronts, I painted the friction surfaces, and have had no ill effects. On the rears, I tried masking, and I'm not happy with the results. There's just no way to get it perfect.
1200 degree paint is probably overkill.
I don't recommend silver. No matter what you do, the boundary between the friction surface and the painted surface will not be perfect, and a little bit of rust will be there. Also, the silver paint really shows brake dust and other imperfections. Black will hide them.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Thanks for the advice, good stuff.
Looks like the high-temp Duplicolor is the way to go. 1200 probably is over kill, but is 500 enough? I will probably just get the 1200 and be done with it.
Good point on the black vs. aluminum/silver Roger. I was thinking the alum. because overspary wont really show, but with the black it would. The new pads are suppose to generate a lot less dust *crosses fingers*.
Ill let you know they turn out.
| 1999 SVT E1 | silver | 147 of 2760
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I'm comfortable with a little bit of overspray or messy masking results bleeding onto the friction area but I wouldn't just paint the friction area and let the pads scrape it off, because no matter what, some of the material will contaminate both the pad and the rotor and I wouldn't count on that being a neutral or positive thing when push comes to shove.
I cut a circle out of newspaper and then carefully masked it onto the rotor with overlapping strips of tape, and it wasn't *perfectly* circular but after the brakes got used a couple times it was all good. I carefully peeled the tape/paper mask off the rotor and moved it to the other one saving a lot of time. Can't do all 4 rotors this way if the inside diameter of the swept areas is different though. But at the end of the day it's 5 minutes of taping, no big deal.
Pacific Green '96 Contour LX V6
â??98 GTP, light mods, 14.66/94
Calypso Green '92 Mustang LX coupe, 13.56/101
Crown Autocross Club 1999 Street Tire Champion, 2000/2001/2002 Street Modified Champion
KCR SCCA 2002 Solo II Street Modified Champion
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Why paint them for rust resistance. I had mine Zinc coated for $5 a piece. They have been on my car about 3 months and don't discolor even when they're wet. They stay bright silver. Mine were also the Stazi rotors.
** Mike **
"You might beat me in a straight line, but I'll embarass you in the turns"
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