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#679197 07/01/03 01:21 AM
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Originally posted by Blackcoog:
Try again Stant 13396 is not the part number. I even called Stant and they don't make a 160 degree thermostat that will fit a 2000 Mustang GT 4.6L.

Who actually has this and would like to shed some light on this?

Thanks,
Chris




I have it - installed it last week. #13396 is the part number. I asked for that # and had it ordered through my uncles shop.


Now owner of 0 SVT's. my web page
#679198 07/01/03 01:51 AM
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They have thermal switches for like $40 already, flex-a-lite IIRC. They have them in the Summit catalog.


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
#679199 07/01/03 02:43 AM
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Originally posted by mcon99:
I think stock the fans don't kick in until 180 or so?




Oh it is MUCH, MUCH worse then that!!!

Primary fan comes on at 216 and the secondary at 224. Stupid!!!

BTW - the PCM starts pulling timing at 200 degrees. 20% by 210, 40% by 230

Programmed in heat soak!!! Absolutely asinine Ford!!!


My operating temps hover in mid to upper 160's when moving. The engine just loves it. My engine gets no higher than the low 190's in stop and go traffic. (it's been 90's with 90% humidity here too so far)

Even at that the primary fan hardly ever runs (never if the car is moving) and the secondary has never kicked on to my knowledge.

Yes I have the fans kick on early (185 for primary/195 for secondary) and for those that asked No you can not just build a simple relay circuit for them. The stock harness and setup will not allow for it.

The SVT radiator combined with the 60/40 water/dex-cool mix and some water wetter works just amazing for heat control!


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#679200 07/01/03 05:11 AM
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I know everyone loves Redline's Water Wetter, but how about Royal Purple's "Purple Ice"? Is that basically the same stuff? I know Royal Purple's oil is "da bomb"...

-Tavis



'99 SVT Contour #535/2760, born 11/30/98. Toreador Red / Prairie Tan Wife's car: '00 Saturn LS2. Dk. Toreador Red (no joke) / Graphite Sunday Bruiser: '67 Camaro rs/SS350 4 spd. Ermine White / Custom Yellow
#679201 07/01/03 01:28 PM
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There is a reason to kick the fans on later and have the temperature run higher.
It is easy to get heat to flow from a Higher Temp to a lower Temp-ambient. The rate of heat flow will be higher for a given amount of heat and it is faster. If you drop the temp the fans come on then it will flow heat slower.
Still, slower transfer at lower temps might be better, but they are trying to get it efficient for all climates, even the 125F days in the deep deserts.

warmonger


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#679202 07/01/03 05:43 PM
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So should I worry about having the fans switch on so late? I could figure out a circuit easily that would work but is it worth my time? Share the wealth DemonSVT How did you do it?

Chris


1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq 2003 VW Passat W8 with 4 Motion AWD http://www.cardomain.com/ride/300644 PM for intrest in 3L SVT Contours, 3L swaps into your current car, Prepped 3L engines, or anything 3L related.
#679203 07/01/03 05:56 PM
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Originally posted by Blackcoog:
So should I worry about having the fans switch on so late? I could figure out a circuit easily that would work but is it worth my time? Share the wealth DemonSVT How did you do it?

Chris




Get a chip that say fans on at 200, its minor setting in the program. Demon as a TWEECER that allows him to modifiy those settings provided he can read in hexadecimal? Ist that part of the problem with the tweecer is that not all functions are visble by the GUI demon?


I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
#679204 07/01/03 08:45 PM
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Originally posted by kinger:
Demon as a TWEECER that allows him to modifiy those settings provided he can read in hexadecimal? Ist that part of the problem with the tweecer is that not all functions are visble by the GUI demon?



There was a lot of that "in the beginning"

We have pretty much everything figured out now. Simple click & switch now. The only "notable" exception has been the pesky knock sensor code.
However I am starting to think that maybe mine doesn't work anyway.
I have yet to see it cut advance and running 40+ degrees in 90 degree weather SHOULD cause it to come on one would think??? Though for that matter I have not "heard" any audible knock either.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
#679205 07/01/03 10:06 PM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by kinger:
Demon as a TWEECER that allows him to modifiy those settings provided he can read in hexadecimal? Ist that part of the problem with the tweecer is that not all functions are visble by the GUI demon?



There was a lot of that "in the beginning"

We have pretty much everything figured out now. Simple click & switch now. The only "notable" exception has been the pesky knock sensor code.
However I am starting to think that maybe mine doesn't work anyway.
I have yet to see it cut advance and running 40+ degrees in 90 degree weather SHOULD cause it to come on one would think??? Though for that matter I have not "heard" any audible knock either.




Try a tank of 87, it'll either pull timing or blow up I'd think. Probably not the best way to test if it works though


97 Contour SE MTX K&N 3530, UR UDP, 19# Injectors, mystery mod, FMS wires, Fordchip.com chip, SVT: TB, Flywheel, clutch, exhaust 04 Grand Caravan SXT
#679206 07/01/03 10:17 PM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by kinger:
Demon as a TWEECER that allows him to modifiy those settings provided he can read in hexadecimal? Ist that part of the problem with the tweecer is that not all functions are visble by the GUI demon?



There was a lot of that "in the beginning"

We have pretty much everything figured out now. Simple click & switch now. The only "notable" exception has been the pesky knock sensor code.
However I am starting to think that maybe mine doesn't work anyway.
I have yet to see it cut advance and running 40+ degrees in 90 degree weather SHOULD cause it to come on one would think??? Though for that matter I have not "heard" any audible knock either.




You know what the hell is the deal with our knock sensors, some contour/cougars have them some don't? Do you know yours does? IIRC my 3L does not have a knock sensor but my original 2.5 did or vice versa I can't remember, I do remember being confused by it but not giving a flying foook just because it ran. Would be a nice saving grace if you could adjust sensitivity and have it dialed in, just scaring finding that perfect setting


I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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