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#67789 08/05/02 08:01 PM
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I recently picked up a 95 contour GL V6 manual with about 140K

The car is very clean and in amazingly good running order.

It does have a few minor problems that I would like to adress.

The driver's door latch pull is unusualy heavy, much more so than the other doors, and I don't wnat to end up clibing in from the pasenger's side, has anyone had this before?

There is a sort of thumping sound from the rear suspension, this is aparently common, will I find it in the archives?

This is the most serious, At low RPM, and in high gears the engine will stumble on acceleration, its like the output is ocilating between normal, and almost nothing, like it has a miss or something, but it steadys out around 2700rpm or so. This happens weather the engine is cold, or fully warmed up. I figure this could be fuel, Ignition, or god knows what with the EFI, any ideas, what should be my first step?

Also, can anyone recomend a good workshop maunual, or better yet, a free downloadable manual?

Thanks
Josh

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Welcome aboard !!

I am sorry I cannot help with the specifcs... I don't even own a Duratec...

About the manuals though I have the Haynes.. and it is kind of helpful... and I also bought the 96 ford CD manual.. that after learning how to use (it does not have a search feature.. I hate it) it becomes then useful....

About the free downnloadable manual... if you find one let me know !!


** CT - USA **

* 96 Contour Gl 2.0
5 Speed Manual / Clarion CD Change
8" Subwoofer & Sony Amp (LOUD !!)
The Cleanest !!!

* 92 Mazda Protege
5 Speed Manual / 1.8

* 94 Yamaha Virago 535
(better than Viagra !!)
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I'd do the simple things first to correct the engine problems. Fuel filter, air fiter, PCV valve, a treatment with "Techron" (that's a fuel system cleaner). Maybe a tune-up. Worst comes to worst take it to Ford and see.
But there are several postings on that subject here.

About the door. I just replaced the cable in the door for mine. It wasn't hard to open, the cable just snapped.
Your's may be broken. It's a pain to fix, but involves taking the door panel off, the foam sound sealer is then removed and you'll see the door handle. There are two screws that hold it to the metal part of the door, unscrew them and PULL the handle off (feels like it won't come, but it will) and you'll see the wire. It's surrounded by a plastic shield. It's designed to run in that shield, and if for some reason your's is broken it would be very hard to open.
Now it also may be the lock mechanism is in need of repair.
It's fun stuff, and if you've got the skills and time, go ahead. If not, that's another reason to go to Ford.
Hope it helps, and welcome aboard!
Nate

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Oh, and the clunk from the rear end is 99% probably the rear sway bar bushings. Mine made a noise too, and they too are a PAIN to fix without time and skills and PATIENCE (which I almost lost when I farted around on mine!)
They are rubber and fit into the rear suspension. Overtime they wear out and then you'll hear a clunking sound. Replacement shouldn't be too expensive however because the pieces are right there easy to access, a shop with a lift should have no problem replacing them.

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Regarding the door handle, before you take it apart, try lubing the latches with silicon grease (available at Autozone). Worked for me.


Scott Skinner
1996 GL V6 ATX Desert Violet
98SE 12-spoke wheels
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Careful on the rear end clunk.....replaced bushing and end links with still the clunk...only thing it fixed was the minor squeaking.....I am still trying to figure out the clunk in the rear...I will look at that park brake cable again..and again....that clunk is a PIA

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I'm talking about the rear sway bar end links. That's where my noise came from. Not the bushings that held the bar to the unibody.
The end links may look just fine, but I bet if you replaced them, the clunk would be gone.


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