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Re: Auto Tranny question
#675553 06/29/03 01:35 AM
Joined: Sep 2002
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Corinth, MS
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unisys12 Offline
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I have been trying to figure out the best way to post this, so I am just gonna throw it out there and see how it comes out... The first row is the approximate temp of the tranny fluid in degrees F and the second row will be the approximate resistance you should be able to measure on the TTF solenoid.

-40 - -4 | 1134 - 242
-3 - 31 | 242 - 84
32 - 68 | 84 - 41
69 - 104 | 41 - 14
105 - 158 | 14 - 5.9
159 - 194 | 5.9 - 3.1
195 - 230 | 3.1 - 1.7
231 - 266 | 1.7 - 1
267 - 302 | 1 - 0.6

Hope it helps you out and I am not too late.

Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
Re: Auto Tranny question
#675554 06/29/03 05:01 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 160
Southeastern PA
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KurtD Offline
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Originally posted by mercman:
Can anyone tell me what the resistance range is for the TFT sensor? I have the SM for the CD4E but it isnâ??t listed.

Thanks

jeff




Here ya go: (Edit: These numbers are from the '95 Ford Contour/Mystique shop manual)

32-58 deg F = 100K - 37K ohms
59-104 deg F = 37K - 16K ohms
105-158 deg F = 16K - 5K ohms
159-194 deg F = 5K - 2.7K ohms

If it's colder or hotter than those numbers, I wouldn't be working on it anyway

I don't think that the absolute value matters all that much, just so it's in those ranges. It's a thermistor so ohmmeter polarity shouldn't matter, but you might want to check with the leads both ways anyway.

Last edited by KurtD; 06/29/03 05:08 AM.
'95 Contour SE, MTX, Champagne '03 EB Expedition, Med Wedgewood Blue
Re: Auto Tranny question
#675555 06/29/03 01:53 PM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 463
Long Island NY
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mercman_dup1 Offline OP
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OK thanks guys!

I got 27K at 60 deg F so the TFT is OK.

I wanted to check all possible PCM issues before starting any internal work. My line pressure was good in P and Rev and it was low 30PSI in the Fwd ranges. I suspect a leak in the Fwd accumulator or the Fwd clutch as well as the typical valve body problems.

I pulled the Valve Body (with the tranny still in the car) yesterday and have ordered an accumulator rebuild kit and the updated TC bypass valve. If that doesnâ??t fix it, it will have to come out.


Thanks
jeff


have you fixed your ford lately?
Re: Auto Tranny question
#675556 06/29/03 11:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,944
Corinth, MS
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unisys12 Offline
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Originally posted by mercman:
OK thanks guys!

I got 27K at 60 deg F so the TFT is OK.

I wanted to check all possible PCM issues before starting any internal work. My line pressure was good in P and Rev and it was low 30PSI in the Fwd ranges. I suspect a leak in the Fwd accumulator or the Fwd clutch as well as the typical valve body problems.

I pulled the Valve Body (with the tranny still in the car) yesterday and have ordered an accumulator rebuild kit and the updated TC bypass valve. If that doesnâ??t fix it, it will have to come out.


Thanks
jeff






Keep us posted on this one.

Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
Re: Auto Tranny question
#675557 07/01/03 01:42 AM
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Posts: 463
Long Island NY
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mercman_dup1 Offline OP
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Well, I inspected the valve body and found the converter bypass, line pressure and converter pressure regulator valves bores to be worn (just like the sonnax article said). Before I pulled the VB I ordered the CD4E-JR shift kit to update the bypass valve (its badly worn). But to do the job right, I will need to replace the regulator valves with oversize spools. This means that I will have to re-bore the bores. Since the valve kit is $130.00 and the boring jig is $300.00, I will buy a rebuilt VB for $275.00.


I have a photo of the worn converter bypass valve sleeve, but I don't have a place to post it. I can email it to anyone interested.


I should have it by next week.

jeff

have you fixed your ford lately?
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