originally posted in other thread (by Sandman333):
Quote:
Finally got around to installing the DMD today, and before I can even start, I cannot get the fricking belt off. There simply is not enough room to slip a driver or breaker bar into the slot on the tensioner to release belt tension. The frame of the car is in the way!!! I can barley slip my breaker bar between the frame and the tensioner with the drive side flat. I would have to have the drive side rotated 90 degrees to fit into the tensioner socket in order to insert it. WTF, FORD???? Has anyone else installed a DMD on or even changed a belt on a Duratech with an ATX? Do I have to pull the damn engine just to change the front accessory drive belt? This thing seems more and more every day to be built like a Chrysler!
Yeah, I always wondered why Ford couldn't have just made the stinkin Contour like 1 or 2 inches wider. I think it woulda even made the car look way cooler looking too. Plus it would have cornered even better if the tire tracks were out wider too.
I got my belt off/on (I'm pretty sure) with an endwrench on the idler pulley nut if I remember right (changed maybe 2 yrs ago)? If I did use a 3/8 breaker bar in the slot though, all must have went well, because I cannot remember it being a pain in the a.. or anything. In many cases, technique is 90% of success (and proper tools is the rest). I'm an auto tech for a living though, so I got experience on my side. Glad to hear you got it though smile

PS- An impact gun works the best to remove the crank pulley nut. The jolting force makes it so you don't have to hold the crank from turning


'95 CONTOUR SE
-Enkei 16s
-Porsche944 Exhaust tip
- Audi xenon projector headlights
-Peterbilt 30" air horns
-mp3 Aiwa headunit (150 songs on one disc)
-dual 10s
-soon to have LED tailights (real kind, not just gay bulbs)
-That's it for now