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Originally posted by SVT_Nate: hmm.. well.. after replacing the regulator the plugs are comming out clean.. completely clean.. I'm guessing that my reg. was the problem with the carbon fouling.. and I'm also guessing that now the reason for the missfire is the lack of MIL eliminators causing a lean condition being that I have no pre-cats. .. Anyone know if this sounds right? .. It's my only guess.
-Nate
AFAIK the bottom O2's have no effect on the A/F ratio, at worst you would get a "catalyst efficieny code" or something of the sort saying your cat is bad. You have any codes?
I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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The codes that I've been getting all along are missfire codes.. P0301, 0303, 0305 ... before I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator I was getting the missfire because of a rich condition.. as the plugs were completely black/carbon fouled. After replacing the regulator the plugs cleaned right up and now have no residue at all on them.. completely clean. I swapped the old out with new plugs again tonight and these while still flashing the missfire are completely clean. From reading about aftermarket headers and what not the MIL eliminator seems to be the cure for the lean condition when running either headers or stock with gutted pre-cats as well as mains.
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I wouldn't think the MIL eliminators will change anything. Look at your upper O2 sensor readings to make sure they look good because those control the A/F along with MAF, IAT and temp sensor.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I will check the Upper 02 readings in the morning. They should be ok all 4 sensors are brand new. the MAF is a Pro-M 75mm calibrated for the 24's that are in the car. If anything I would think that with that combo it would run a little rich. The IAT I noticed was ok today.. was reading temps around 90 degrees on a completely warm engine. The ECT sensor was reading around 211 degrees at hottest.
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Hey Nate, I tell everybody this whenever they fire up 3L, use stock injectors, MAF, and no chips so you can rule out all other issues. We know the engine will run fine on the stock fuel/ignition system so it is the best baseline area to start with. Then start adding mods one at a time.
By the way, I have found the eManage to be the most usefull tool when changing MAF's or injectors, or tweaking a little more with the custom chip I have. It allows datalogging that you can't normally do and allows you to use your stock maf with a range of different injectors though not if the injectors are doubled in size! I would say you could use the emanage safely with injectors that are up to 30% maybe 50% larger or smaller. I tried to go from 19# to 36# and it just doesn't work. Anyway, put the stock maf back on and reset your pcm. Your car will run rich with 24's if you don't swap them as well, but at least it will run. I personally would swap maf and injectors back because you don't know if you have an injector fault at this point. It is possible you have some bent pins in the injector plugs...I had that happen earlier this year though I found it. Make sure that big plug on the wiring harness that has the 10mm bolt in it and connects up over the transmission is good. Last time I put the engine in two pins bent and I had all kinds of funny problems until I straightened them out.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I am going to look into the bent/ pin issue today. I have already tried going back to the stock MAF with the stock injectors and all.. and with all of it to no eval.. still has the same problem. The car is running really lean right now.. which is causing the missfire according to what I've read and according to the FS manual... However, the only way I know of to get rid of that condition is to install the MIL's short of as you had mentioned an aftermarket fuel computer.. which might end up being the road I take.
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Just confirmed the now lean issue.. apparently the FP regulator was the issue for the rich condition.. now that it's replaced the car is running lean. I closed the secondaries and the car runs like a top below 4k.. no hesitation and no missfires.
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I don't get it, aren't the secondaries closed anyway??? Or did you gut the secondaries? I hope you didn't, but at the least you know what to do now...put em back in!
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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No.. didn't gut them at all.. The IMRC box isn't opening right so What I ended up doing was tieing them open. When I was running the 2.5 I never had a problem.. a little low end lag.. but that was it, so when we built this engine I just tied them open. With it closed the car still flashs with a missfire (Was fine earlier today after a longer run the missfire came back).. just runs a little smoother at lower RPM's. the missfire is still caused by a lean condition as the plugs are starting to glaze a little now.
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Well, put the MIL's on it with no change. Bought an Apexi SAFC and installed that tonight. Car seems to be running better now. No longer missfireing with just the little tuning that I did. I have a ton of tuning ahead though and I'm looking for any advice on settings. The car right now is running to rich as it feels sluggish at high end and when getting on it.. I know that can be easily changed. I'm just happy to have a drivable car... Lol
-Nate
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