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Originally posted by Josch:
Yeah, the thicker oil sticks better to the cylinder walls which helps to seal the rings better (Lamen's terms). I've always run my Duratec on 10w-40 (I'm up North), and never any thinner, and I get better power and response too. Thicker oil also offers better protection. The reason thin oils have gotten so common these days, is because the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) pushes thinner oil because it has less drag on moving parts (gives better fuel economy), and the oil pump doesn't take away as much HP to pump thinner oil. So cars with it use less gas over long term. Now this doesn't seem like a significant loss, and it isn't, in one car, but if everyone in the U.S. runs 5w-30, that adds up to a LOT of gas, and pollution over a year's period. But I'd rather go for the extra protection of thicker oil in my cars, and so far, it's paid off
I don't know the answer, but I do know that you contradict yourself in this post. First you're getting more power because of better ring seal, then you're being told by the gov to run thinner oil because it:
1. Has less parasitic drag on moving parts (=more hp)
2. Puts less strain on the oil pump (=more hp)
3. Burns gasoline more efficiently (=more hp)
I don't know why Flecha is getting the results he's getting, but it is absolutely counterintuitive.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Originally posted by RogerB:
I don't know why Flecha is getting the results he's getting, but it is absolutely counterintuitive.
I don't know either, I know thinner oil has less drag which in turn should produce more power, same as the pump..actually thinner oil should extend the life of the pump because it works less, go figure. The only reasoning I have is that my engine lost compression or something internally in which the 15-50 restores, like I said I don't know. But for right now the instantaneous throttle response and mid-range torque (3600rpm to be exact) is way to inviting to use anything else.
eric
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Well, I've only used Mobil1 5-30 in my CSVT since I've had it, and I can always tell a big positive change in power and free revving of the motor after I do a change, so I'm sticking with the thinner oil.
Scott
Troll! '99 BMW 328i
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Thats why I did a back to back to back comparo, so that I knew I wasn't fooling myself, even with the 5-30 new I noticed a power loss.
I use 6.5 quarts to for every change.
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Originally posted by RogerB:
I don't know the answer, but I do know that you contradict yourself in this post. First you're getting more power because of better ring seal, then you're being told by the gov to run thinner oil because it:
1. Has less parasitic drag on moving parts (=more hp)
2. Puts less strain on the oil pump (=more hp)
3. Burns gasoline more efficiently (=more hp)
I don't know why Flecha is getting the results he's getting, but it is absolutely counterintuitive.
Better ring seal is increasing compression which is increasing the power from the gas that he is already burning in the first place. But the increased drag on the parts inside the engine (including the oil pump and oil slosh around engine parts) is causing him to have to burn more gas to overcome that loss. Perhaps this is the EPA's logic behind why they seem to want everyone to run thin oil. Because manufacturers can also set higher static compression ratios to counteract any compression losses as well. But moving oil around will always cost a certain amount of power to move around. I don't know the exact reason to everything, but I DO know that the EPA was responsible for this whole shabang with the thinner oil viscosities.
'95 CONTOUR SE
-Enkei 16s
-SVT wannabe
-Dual escapes w/ 2 1/2" stainless tips
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OK. I see your point, now.
But I don't see how thicker oil would give you better seal. Combustion pressure is on top of the piston... Rings do the sealing...
I'm very confused.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Originally posted by FlechaAutoSports:
Originally posted by wavrdr:
Eric,
Are you still going to make the drive over here this month? I'll most likely be heading to the Auto-X session down at Metro Zoo June 28th...so if you wanna come, feel free. Otherwise, let me know if/when you wanna drive over.
June 28th is PERFECT! I will see if 2 of my buddies will come down! Of course we're talking the Miami Metro Zoo right?
Demon, does Mobil 1 sell 5-40? OR who does?
I'm no engineer or scienctist.. but I;ve driven my car for close to 4 years, so I know its power range pretty well. Don;t ask my why but the thicker oil does make a difference on MY CAR. Maybe I'm losing compression or something and the 15 restores it, I don't know, one thing I do know is I do have more power.
Eric...it's at the Miami Metro Zoo, and starts around 7:00 if you're going to compete. There should be a couple of SVT's there...Not sure if I 'm gonna run yet, but I probably will...shoot where else can you rip on your car and not get into any trouble(legal that is).
2002 ZO6...462whp/410wtq
pretty darn fast!11.70 @ 122
silver/black
2006 Trailblazer SS(wifes car)
silver/black
2000 SVT-Turbo-sold
silver/blue #1699/2150
13.83 @ 102.82 on 5psi
13.51 @ 107.56 on 8psi
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For the most part, this is true. Rings do a pretty good job of sealing combustion pressure, but it IS still a metal on metal seal. There will always be a certain amount of leakage that gets by (more so on older, more tired engines). I work in the auto repair industry for a living, and one way (only to illustrate a point) we use to help aid in determining ring problems is, after running a compression test and you find a cylinder with low compression say, and you need to determine where that compression is leaking to, right? So we squirt a few squirts of engine oil into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole, and then crank the engine over a few revolutions to slosh that oil around the cylinder. Then we redo our compression test, and if the compression suddenly returns to almost normal or normal levels, then we know that we have ring problems (either just worn, broken, or whatever). If the compression stays low after doing this, then we do a leakdown test to hunt for bad valves or whatever else. But the point is, that oil always improves the seal. I seen engines that got flooded real bad that wouldn't even start because the gas rinsed all the oil off the cylinders and eng lost all it's compression. So when you merely cranked on the engine, it would never start, but if pull-started (eng. had enough speed to slosh oil around on the cylinders), then the engine would build compression and start. This is a simple law of physic, but the oil is actually the seal between the two metals (of the rings and cylinders). Just food for thought
'95 CONTOUR SE
-Enkei 16s
-SVT wannabe
-Dual escapes w/ 2 1/2" stainless tips
-True LED taillight conversion
- Audi Xenon Projector Retrofit
-Mp3 deck, dual 10s
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Flethca, do you notice any buriong oil smell to loss of oil when you drain the 5w 30??? Im thinking that the only reason you would get less power is if you had bad rings and you were getting blow-by....Because when i went form 15w 30 to 5w 30 i got better performance.....or maybe Mobil one set a mis- labeled batch of oil to your location....lol....just kiddin...but hey, if you car gets a clean bill of health, then it would be intresting to see....Can i reconmend a Dyno of each oils then post them....amybe that can help clear things up.
Roz
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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why does everyone use mobil 1???
99 Contour SVT
-Spec Stage 1 Clutch, LSD, Spec lightened flywheel.
91 Ranger XLT
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