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Joined: Jun 2003
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My A/C condensor had a leak in it for about 2 mo. and I finally got it welded, checked, and put back on. the condensor was off for about 1hr max. Considering the time that my condensor had 1st got the leak and the time that it was off of my car completely, will I need to change the drier (accumulator) as well? If so, how hard is this and how-to? What about an expansion/orphis valve?

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By the numbers, you should replace the R/D. You should be able to get away without changing it. Pull a good vacuum for about 1/2 hour to purge any moisture then charge it up (1#, 10 oz). The orfice tube should be fine unless clogged.

AL


Red '98 SVT E0 3098/6535 DMD other stuff and a Bullitt fuel door
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if yo dont have a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum.. all i did when the high pressure valve blew(had to replace it).. was to charge from the low side and let the R-134A out the high side.. the freon blew out any moisture in there...I have a home made vacuum pump from an old refrigerator compressor that i used to use in the old R-12 systems.. but the valve on it will not work with the new R-134A hoses...if you have an old pump i found out that you can get a retrofit R-134A valve to put over the old R-12 valve and the old pump will work fine....
hope this helps.

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Since the dessicant (in the Filter/Drier) removes moisture from the refrigerant, blowing refrigerant through it doesn't restore it. A dehydrating vacuum will. This is a deep vacuum and a 1/2 hour is a little short. I would do it at least 2 hours. It is not the size of the system that determines the time to remove the moisture, but the size of the F/D.


My name is Richard. I was a Contouraholic. NOW: '02 Mazda B3000 Dual Sport, Black BEFORE: '99 Contour SE Sport Duratec ATX Spruce Green PIAA 510's, Foglight MOD, K&N Drop-in

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