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i get that with my firestones too. stock size.
NEED AN SVT REAR BUMPER!!! pm me
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It's called tram lining. Basically following ruts in the roads like a tram car on the tracks.
I wouldn't think it was the tires unless they are super grippy low profile tires. I think it's the rims. When you change the offset, you are changing the overall suspension geometry. Front drivers are very suceptible to such things.
Have you had an alignment? It's always a good idea when changing the wheel size.
98 Silver Frost SVT
97 BMW 540I Sport, six speed
"Blue is for sky, black is for soil, and white is for simplicity, purity and hope for the future"
"A coveted car should never stunt your life, but should make it more rich and interesting."
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Originally posted by Phil Rohtla:
It's called tram lining. Basically following ruts in the roads like a tram car on the tracks.
I wouldn't think it was the tires unless they are super grippy low profile tires. I think it's the rims. When you change the offset, you are changing the overall suspension geometry. Front drivers are very suceptible to such things.
Have you had an alignment? It's always a good idea when changing the wheel size.
First thing I checked actually. The alignement checked as as being dead on. I was hoping it wasn't the wheels themselves, at least I can replace the tires and call it "maintenance" for the family accountant 
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Joined: Apr 2003
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rkneeshaw, it's the wheel offset that's causing the problem. When your wheels were pushed out by 10mm you've changed the scrub radius of your front geometry. It went from slight negative SR value( factory setting ) to slight positive SR. That will greatly increase the sensitivity to the road crowning and any imperfections. I bet you feel that there is more feedback through your steering wheel when you are driving with these wheels.
To a degree this is good thing as you can 'feel' more of what the front wheels are doing. But in the long run, it will be tiring/fatiguing to drive for distance. Another side effect is during a tire blow-out the steering will be pulled to the side of the tire failure instead of more or less neutral pull of factory SR setting.
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What about me then? I have stock wheels, you can check my post above, all stock suspension/steering, I've had it looked at 3x and aligned too, also have new tie rods. This is the most annoying thing about my car, what could it be for me?
I live in Detroit, I couldn't give a **** how good my car is in the "twisties."
"I could use a hundred people who don't know there is such a word as impossible."
~Henry Ford
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It can happen with sticky tires as well. I figured it was the offset for the other fellow because, IIRC, the GT Qualifier is not a hi performance radial like, for example, a Firestone SZ250.
98 Silver Frost SVT
97 BMW 540I Sport, six speed
"Blue is for sky, black is for soil, and white is for simplicity, purity and hope for the future"
"A coveted car should never stunt your life, but should make it more rich and interesting."
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Originally posted by TSIN03SE:
When your wheels were pushed out by 10mm you've changed the scrub radius of your front geometry. It went from slight negative SR value( factory setting ) to slight positive SR.
TSIN03SE, thanks man, that makes sense. Now is there a way to make an adjustment on the "Contique" to correct for this?
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Well new tires definately helped this. Old tires: Dunlop GT Qualifiers New tires: Yokohama ES100 LOVE the new tires. Alot less "tram riding" and she drives real straight now 
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Bling, Bling we have a winner! I have done several side by side tests and the offset is the most noticable (currently running with spacers on Potenza re950 225/16/50) but when you add more of an offset and then a larger tire it starts to be very noticable. I also notice a lot more tq steer. I like to think of it as adding a longer lever arm to the hub so I now have less of a mechanical advantige over the steering. So anything that disrupts the tire is now apmlified back to the driver. I hope that made some logic??? and pardon the bad spelling must get sleep... Originally posted by TSIN03SE:
rkneeshaw, it's the wheel offset that's causing the problem. When your wheels were pushed out by 10mm you've changed the scrub radius of your front geometry. It went from slight negative SR value( factory setting ) to slight positive SR. That will greatly increase the sensitivity to the road crowning and any imperfections. I bet you feel that there is more feedback through your steering wheel when you are driving with these wheels.
To a degree this is good thing as you can 'feel' more of what the front wheels are doing. But in the long run, it will be tiring/fatiguing to drive for distance. Another side effect is during a tire blow-out the steering will be pulled to the side of the tire failure instead of more or less neutral pull of factory SR setting.
Woz
2000 Contour SVT #136
Black with Blue leather
30% tint all around
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Originally posted by MassContour:
My sister has a 2001 Saab 9-3. That car has pronounced torque steer-it was a little scary, and nothing I've ever come close to noticing with my CSVT. Plus, the Saab felt so front-heavy, I thought I was carrying a snowplow. It really made me appreciate the CSVT's sweet steering.
That's not torque steer that you are experiencing. That is crappy front traction combined with high torque at low rpm. Torque steer is a result of unequal length half-shafts which will pull the steering wheel to one side under acceleration. The best example of this is probably a mid-80's FWD Cadillac.
As such when someone changes wheels they shouldn't 'notice' torque steer.
'99 Black SVT
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