Roger:
IIRC, according to the recall, even if the fans were replaced under the recall, the protectors were still supposed to be installed to protect the wiring harnesses.
Does the compressor engage and run? If the comp doesn't run, you won't build up enough pressure on the high side of the A/C system and the fans won't turn on.
There are 2 pressure switches that control the A/C clutch. The high side safety cutout switch and the one in the low side that actually does the cycling of the clutch under normal operating condix.
The A/C comp clutch gets power (confusingly) through the heater blower motor relay, the A/C clutch high pressure cutout switch, the clutch cycling pressure switch and the A/C clutch relay when the HVAC selector is in one of the four A/C enabling positions. There is also a relay that is controlled by the PCM that disengages the A/C at WOT. Any one of which could mess up the A/C system. If the heater blower runs, the blower motor relay is OK.
All the relays, except the blower motor relay (located under the dash somewhere), are in the engine compartment electrical box. The high limit cutout pressure switch is located right in front of the radiator coolant reservoir (switch terminals connected to the pink and pink/blue wires should be normally closed, the other two are open until 285 psi and control the cooling fans). The clutch cycling pressure switch is located on the driver's side of the radiator, below the battery, on the accumulator (closes at 45 psi, opens at 23.5 psi, wire colors: pink and pink/orange, should be normally closed at system off). A low charge (<23.5 or possibly 45 psi) would keep the cycling switch from closing preventing the A/C clutch from engaging.
The schematic for the A/C system is spread out across three pages in the electrical manual, with connections jumping from one page to another, several times. My head is spinning now
but I hope this helps you a little with your diagnosis.
Also, check this post:
A/C Diagnostic Tests (Thanx projectSHO89)
Kurt
