|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,040
Member
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,040 |
Originally posted by builder:
I know the best bet would be to have a shop do it....... You spoke the truth, follow your instincts. A shop would have the press to get the driveshaft spline out, to press out/in bearing and to properly torque axle nut. Usually 2 hrs labor + bearing($50) + taxes.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 923
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 923 |
If you go the route of letting the shop do everything, I think sears charged me about $120 for parts and labor.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,537
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,537 |
Why are we replacing bearings, when we can replace the whole hub ?
It is much easier to swap the hub, then to tear it down
and rebuilt it with a new bearing.
Pete... 98.5 SE Sport Duratec ATX (P66L) Black Clearcoat on Greystone DOB 11/21/1997 DOP 12/25/1997 PIAA 510 Super White Driving Lights SVT CAT-BACK EXHAUST (No Resonator) DiabloSport Chip (LPQ4) - Engineered To Raise Hell Too many other mods to list... Sounds sweet, runs quick... Crazy Horse Dyno @ 121.4 WHP/129.6 TQ
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 40
Member
|
|
OP
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 40 |
Originally posted by RoadRunner:
Why are we replacing bearings, when we can replace the whole hub ?
It is much easier to swap the hub, then to tear it down
and rebuilt it with a new bearing. Is this a DIYer? how much do hubs go for? the main issue for me right now is $$$ so if it's cheaper just to replace the hub...
1995 Contour SE V6
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 116
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 116 |
I just had my bearing replaced. I was going to do it myself but I needed a torque wrench capable of 200 + foot pounds of torque for the hub nut. Those are hard to find but you can rent them. The dealer did mine for 84 bucks cuz I had no time and tool. The hub is a sealed unit. No pressing needed. The whole thing is replaced. I AM a mechanic, but one time I was on vacation in Utah at my brother's place when mine failed on my old Probe. So I replaced it in his driveway with tools that I had with me, and some of his. But I too needed a torque wrench, and so I just snugged them up good in his driveway with a ratchet, and then drove the car real easy over to the local tirestore (I brought the correct socket that would fit), and I had the tire guy tighten the axle nut for FREE!
'95 CONTOUR SE -Enkei 16s -Porsche944 Exhaust tip - Audi xenon projector headlights -Peterbilt 30" air horns -mp3 Aiwa headunit (150 songs on one disc) -dual 10s -soon to have LED tailights (real kind, not just gay bulbs) -That's it for now
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,701
Member
|
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,701 |
Builder: There is a huge difference between doing the front vs. the rear bearings. The backs can be done in about 1/2 hour per side. (Disk brakes) The hub and bearing are replaced together and no special tools are needed, except a 32 MM axle nut socket. The front beargings are a whole different story, and you have to remove the steering knucle to have the hub & bearing pressed out & back in at a machine shop. (Some NAPA stores have the bearing and machine shop services.) The fronts take several hours per side and you'll need a large puller to get the steering knuckle/hub off the drive axle. (A haynes manual is adequate for directions...)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
