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#648695 05/29/03 04:07 PM
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Hi, this is my first post, even though I have been lurking for a few years.

Recently, I added the following upgrades to my car:
HU: Pioneer DEH-P350
Front doors: Kenwood KFC-X688C
Rear doors: Pioneer TS-680R

These upgrades are a dramitic change, compared to the "premium" sound system that came with my car (98.5 SVT).

I am not sure if my next upgrade should be a sub, or an amp, as my system sound good now, but I am missing the bottom end.


Thanks,
SvtinAtl

#648696 05/29/03 11:19 PM
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A sub would be the next logical step (BTW, make sure your factory amp is bypassed).


1999 Ford Contour SVT #900/2760 (SOLD) 2005 Mazda 6s 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4
#648697 05/30/03 02:18 AM
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I agree, get a sub and an amp to power it.
Even better, get a 5 channel amp and power everything.


-Ken V. 1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX psycho_bass@hotmail.com Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
#648698 05/30/03 02:20 AM
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Well a sub would be your next step up, but it's best to run a sub off an amp.

You don't want to run a sub off your head unit.

So why not by a cheap 12" JL W0 and a Alpine 5 channel amp.

You could run your highs and sub off the 5 channel.

At this point the only up grade would be an EQ and more/ better of what you already have.

More/better, like an eq and amp for each speaker and the skills to tune it . Yes, it's over kill and most don't go there. So just do a 12" and 5 channel and be done.


Anthony B. Davis 2Deep2 Silver SVT 2002 IASCA SQ Ult Ama 601+ World Champion runner up 2002 SLAP dBQ Champion 2000 USAC SQ World Champion 2002 USACi SQ World Champion
#648699 05/30/03 08:56 PM
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2deep2,

Thanks for the reply. Can you give me an idea which model numbers you are referring to, and their respective costs. I am on a bit of a budget.

Also, I don't need a huge booming system, just enough bass to fill out the bottom-end of my music. So, I hope your suggestions are appropriate for my situation.

Thanx,

#648700 05/31/03 01:45 PM
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5 Channel Alpine MRP-F320, 30 watts x 4 + 120 watts X 1 @ $280 MSRP

I'm not the best on cheap but good subs.
What I like is JL WO but it may not be the $87 that the W1 was. I would not get the W3 or W6 or W7 stuff.

Better subs for a little more $$ would be Image Dynamics IDQv2. A 12" IDQv2 will run on 120 watts and love a 0.7 cf box.

Have no experience with Lamda but many say it's great sound but not expensive sub.

Regardless of who's sub you get, I would get one 12".
There are some good 10's but a 10 or 8 will need more excusion to produce lower frequencies when compared to a 12 or 15. You can get clean low frequency response with low power out of a properly designed larger sub. You don't want a 15 because you may need the sub to run high, like 120 Hz (crossover at 80hz), to meet your door speakers.

You don't want to buy power hungry SPL monsters like W7, Kickers and the like and run them off 120 watts. They will never work with the 120 watts.

With the W0 and 5 ch amp you will be able to 120 to 130 dB.


Anthony B. Davis 2Deep2 Silver SVT 2002 IASCA SQ Ult Ama 601+ World Champion runner up 2002 SLAP dBQ Champion 2000 USAC SQ World Champion 2002 USACi SQ World Champion
#648701 05/31/03 03:10 PM
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For an inexpensive sub that performs well, I'd take a look at the Dayton 12" Quatro Sub for $75. You'd only need a .7ft^3 box for sealed or 1.5ft^3 for ported with a 4" by 18" port. I'd probably go with the ported enclosure for deeper bass extension and better output with a relatively modest 120w.

There's also a Dayton 15" Quatro for $85 which would need 1.5ft^3 - sealed or 3ft^3 - ported with a 4" by 17" port. It'll play deeper and louder than the 12" with that 120w at the expense of some trunk space.

I don't have any personal experience with the Quatro subs (although I've got a Dayton DVC for HT), but they've gotten great reviews on the PE tech board.


1999 Ford Contour SVT #900/2760 (SOLD) 2005 Mazda 6s 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4
#648702 06/04/03 04:52 PM
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2Deep2,

Hopefully, this will be my last post on this issue. A local shop is offering the Crossfire VR-142 (2chnl, 140w-rms) amp, with the Crossfire CF310 (10") sub mounted in a band pass box, installed for $349.00

I have never heard of the Crossfire brand, so I am curious to know if their any good. Secondy, how tight/clean will a band pass box be, I do not want a "farty/buzzing" sound.
Lastly, how does the price sound?

Thanx,
SVTinATL

#648703 06/04/03 06:24 PM
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Well if you figure they are charging you 50.00 for the install, then you are spending 300.00 on the amp/subs. I think you can do much better than that setup for 300.00. Have you thought about used equiptment or does it have to be new? You can get a jbl p180.2 for 139.99 which will supply 360 watts to a 4 ohm load. That should be plenty of power for one sub. Now you have roughly 150.00 left for a sub and box, that should be enough for something fairly good. I'll try to find some examples in a bit.


http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=jblp1802&store=&rpc=4047&catid=306


Vinny 2000 T-RED CSVT MODS: 18" REV model 2 ST200 struts/Roush springs CTA intake Pipe/K&N Filter Dtec Heatshield Optimized TB True Duals w/ magnaflow mufflers/resonators
#648704 06/04/03 08:38 PM
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Pienstars,

I am sure, I could find better prices out there, but the problem is, once it's all home with me, I would not have the faintest idea how to hook it all up or wire it, etc.
With this in mind, I am kinda stuck having to pay the price the shop is asking for.

Suggestions???

SVTINATL

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