Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec 3.0L Hybrid Dyno Plot 5/17/03

Whats up guys, this is my first post and I just wanted to get some info about tuning Y2K's contour. Ive got a A/F meter that uses a wideband sensor for tuning my sonoma and I want to run it on the contour to see exactly what its doing. My question to you guys is what kind of A/F ratios should we be getting for max power. On my sonoma I try to get it as close to 12.6 as I can all the way up to 5 grand. Im going to run it on the autotap as well to make sure all the O2 sensors are working and something else wierd isnt going on.

Thanks for the help guys.

After reading a couple more posts ive found a couple guys that say they lean out there cars into the mid 13 range. This sounds like it may be a little lean so im wondering if anyone has a dyno sheet of a stock 2.5 or 3.0 to see what kind of A/F ratios they pull. I suppose if we could get close to or match those we should be alright.

From the factory, these cars run a little fat all around. The thing is, unless you have a before and after of each run of your own car, you won't know what to set your particular vehicle to. Even the same wideband O2 can get different readings on the same car depending on where in the exhaust you're getting the readings, let alone two different O2's on different cars, on different dynos, from halfway across the country. All said, aim for the safe side of stoich, then lean out to where the vehicle stops responding and back it off a bit.

Hey Jim thanks for the help there buddy. Another guy on this board just moved here from Detroit and he called me up tonight saying he was gonna help me out also. We all need to get together.

Hey Mark did Dynotech put a sniffer on your tail pipe to read the A/F ratio? Im sure they did which means its probably not all that accurate. If we can mount my wideband right on the collector of the y-pipe we should get a pretty accurate reading and we'll be able to see whats going on. The autotap will also read A/F ratio but it will be reading the A/F coming of the stock O2 sensors which isnt as accurate. Between the two we should be able to get an idea of whats wrong. I just have to find a working laptop so I can load of the software.

yea thats probably the MOST accurate but if I get too close to the manifolds it will heat the sensor up too much and decrease its life. The sensors are becoming really rare so I dont want to have to replace this one. It will still be waaay more accurate then the tail sniffers at the dyno that most people tune off of.

Even if the tail sniffers are inaccurate, you're still just tuning for max power. Chris (Keyser) and I shot for a certain figure from the tail sniffers and played around until max power was reached. Just be sure you're still safe (not lean) and you're golden. That's my take on it, anyway.

Ok so I put the stock SVT MAF back on and the 19# injectors. Car ran like absolute crap at first, sounded like the same noises the motor made when I blew it up 5 months ago. Then it finally brought itself out of it and idled alright. The idle is still acting a little funny, doesnt die anymore like it did with the Pro-M and 24's but still idles below 700. Id say right at 600 or so and still is a little bit jumpy going from 550 to 700. The car seamed to run a little smoother but maybe I was fooling myself. I thought the problem was solved until I started the car up a little bit later and started to back out of my driveway. CEL again!! I need to scan the codes again and see what it might be now. Hey Ryan, you might be right about those O2's. Maybe its something totally different though. All I know is Im sending the Pro-M and the Optimizer back.

Are you using MIL eliminator's?