Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec 3.0L Hybrid Dyno Plot 5/17/03

Why do people think these are low numbers? That's 25 HP gain over a straight 3L swap... Anyway, the MAF is not a tuning device when you're running a totally custom engine set up. Take the MAF flow sheet to the dyno with you and get a custom burn if you want the combinations true power. The MAF alone will not make it run perfect... ever...

I really don't think they are bad numbers, especially seing what Dion dynoed at (sorry Dion) with P&P heads (granted 2.5L valves), with tuning I would think another 10-15hp easy.

I never said that I am going to tune my whole car with the MAF. I'm just saying that I believe I have a bad MAF. It wasn't calibrated right in the first place and so I had to buy an optimizer to fix it? I'll just have them recalibrate this one or I'll buy a new one and send this one back. I'm gonna look around as far as custom chips. I'll probably have my computer flashed. We'll see after I get the little things figured out.

Not only that Brad, but the stock programming is set to run extremely rich to begin with.

So having the MAF fool the PCM into thinking that 24lbers are 19lbers is not going to change the PCM's programming in any way. It's still going to run the car rich just like it always has been. Just not "even" richer by just plopping in the 24lbers by themselves.


It will Always need dyno tuning. 'nuff said.

Ok you see when I put the MAF on I didn't just put the MAF on. I had the car motor fully built and had everything aftermarket put onto the car as it was put in. Pulled the codes the day I got the car back. P171 - P174 LEAN!! Not rich. You guys are saying it will make the car run rich. It was not running rich at all. I called SP Motorsports to let them know the deal and he suggested buying the optimizer. So I did, and did what Pro-M suggested and now it runs overly rich. The guy at Pro-M had no idea what the problem was. He cant figure it out either. Im gonna call them again and see if we can figure something out. And yes I realize it will need tuning. I just see no sense in tuning with a "possible" bad part on the car. I'd rather get the MAF problem solved and then tune. Just my way of seeing it though I guess.

That's why I said put your stock maf and injectors back in, reset the pcm and let it learn. Then dyno as a proper baseline. If you are still getting the codes then something else is wrong. NO WAY will you max out the stock injectors or MAF in your present state ... period.
Anyway, run the car like that a little while and let everything settle down. Use the time to check all your other little issues like verify O2 sensors work, fuel pressure is good, etc. Then change one part at a time.
I put the 24's in with the stock maf at first and the pcm was able to adjust for them without any extra devices. It wasn't ideal, but it works. I hate to say it, but you are better off getting a MAF calibrated by CFM and using a chip than you are by calibrating it by injector sizing.
Hell, get an emanage so you can tailor your A/F curve at the dyno with the stock MAF or Pro-M and you'll make more power, I promise that.

Ok so I am in way over my head, I dunno a damn thing about the 3.0L conversion/hybrid stuff. But I do have a 75mm maf and had problems with it. I had the same codes you had twice. They just don't seem to be able to get the calibration right. Take the pro-m off and put the stock one on. Let the computer reset and learn again. See if you are still running lean or rich. I agree with you, I don't think the maf is correct. Just trouble shoot, I am willing to bet the maf is the problem.

Well finally someone that agrees with me. It doesnt necessarily mean that Im right. I talked with a tech at Pro-M today and he was trying to tell me that I need to check all my grounds now. He said that that would explain my barometer readings being so low and the voltage of my MAF being .56 volts without the optimizer. He also was leading me through optimizing the MAF and then told me that my optimizer is bad. I would richen it up and the car wouldnt idle and then finally died. He thinks that it was setup backwards and that when I would turn it lean it would richen up and when I would turn it rich it would lean out. I guess I have to go back and check all the grounds now but doesnt sound too definate if you ask me.