Originally posted by PA 3L SVT:
First off, from www.contour.org, click FAQ -> HOWTO articles -> Maintenance -> How to change the spark plugs on the Duratec V6 The forums aren't the only part of this site - lots of good info resides off the main page.
Taking the coil pack off takes minimal time and makes access to the rear plugs much easier. I guess you don't HAVE to, but it helps. The coil pack is the only part you HAVE to remove (if you choose to) - the intakes stay on.
You want exactly 8" of extension for the rears. Just so happens I have 3" and 5" extension in my socket set. Any more and I think the rear cowl would start to get in the way. Any less and the wrench won't clear the UIM on the back set.
This is the most important part IMHO: [b]Get an inch-pound torque wrench! Don't guess on how hard to tighten the plugs down or you could strip them. Mine cost $40. Sure, it costs a little $$$ at first, but if you want to do any real work on this engine (like removing the intake manifolds, for example) you'll need one. And once you have one, you won't need to pay anyone to do the plugs for you again. Saves money in the long run.
At first, I thought anti-sieze was a bad idea, until I tried to remove a set that I installed without it. After 2 months, they were quite stuck in there. I use it now. You'll get varying opinions on this.
Dielectric grease is your friend. Use it any time you disturb a plug wire from the coil pack or a plug. Cheap tube can be had at Pep Boys.
First time I did it, it took 90 minutes (and it was COLD outside so I kept stopping to warm the hands inside). I'd say 45 minutes to R&R a set, taking my time now.[/b]
