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Joined: Jan 2001
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Hey, me again.

Uhm. So, no, I don't have the Alpine Type R subwoofers, but they are currently a part of my plans. Just want to get some validation on some things and a few questions answered.

Now, this is why CEG is the greatest and why I'll NEVER sell my SVT (I wouldn't feel right hanging around here without it ). There's someone here to help out no matter what the topic and the advice is usually succinct and effective. It's great.

Anyways...

Just a reminder, I'm the guy with the all-Alpine setup of 6.5 & 5.25 comps, 6x9s, amps, etc. Now I'm looking to buy some subwoofers (probably Alpine ) and I have a few questions... I'll try to keep the rest of the post short and sweet.

1) 4-ohm or 2-ohm?

2) Is the MRV-T407 powerful enough? (200wRMS/400wMax 14.4v/4ohm/1-ch bridged, 100wRMS/200wMax 14.4v/2ohm/2-ch)

3) One or two subwoofers?
4) Is it okay to bridge two channels for one sub?
5) What kind of box?
6) Where to mount, and how?
7) What size? (10", 12", 15")

.RMk..



'99 SVT, Silver Frost Open K&N w/ heat shield, various other, more unimportant mods.
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1. I think 4 ohms is most common
2.
3. I have two, so it is well balance when on the quiet side and you can really feel them when turned up
4. I have a 4 channel amp for two subs, previous owner ran it like this since he built it and so am I
5. sealed box, I think a ported box is just louder
6. face them towards the back of the car, I have that and tried forward and the sound louder facing backwards
7. 12's seem decent


- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd - 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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1. Depends on the Amps. Ohms on the sub don't change performance of the sub.
2. For the type R (and especially 2), I'd go bigger. I'm running 2 type S with a Coustic 400SE-seems to be a good match.
3.2
more later...gotta run.


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1) Depends on the amp you'll choose, you'd go for the lowest stable ohms the amp is capable of running at. It'll also depend on how many subs and the wiring configuration you'll choose.

2) The MRV-T407 would be powerful enough for a single efficient subwoofer.

3) The number really doesn't matter. More is not always better. A single 12" can sound incredible and a 10" triple box can sound like poop, or vice versa. I usually go with a single sub for simplicity. For more more volume, you'd just go with a sub that has higher handling and displacement abilities.

4) Yes (provided the amp is capable). And, the frequencies subs play have little or no stereo separation.

5) Depends on what you're after. Sealed will play deeper and (usually) more accurately while taking up less room at the expense of efficiency (you'll need more power). Ported will play louder with less power but can be 2-3x bigger than the sealed box. If not done correctly, they can sound boomy, muddy, and inaccurate.

6) Best/easiest place would be in the trunk against the rear seats facing the rear bumper. Build it with an angled back to fit flush against the rear seats and use some velcro to keep it from sliding around.

7) Depends. As you go bigger the subs will play deeper and be more efficient. But, they'll require larger enclosure sizes. Figure out how much trunk you're willing to sacrifice and choose the number and size of subs from there (also keeping in mind how much amplifier power you've got or will need to power them).

BTW, my brother-in-law has got a pair of 10" Type R subs in his L and really likes them (I thought they were pretty decent too). Although there are plenty of subs that can outperform them in the bump/$ measure, you'd probably be happy with them.


1999 Ford Contour SVT #900/2760 (SOLD) 2005 Mazda 6s 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4

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