Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Removing/replacing cooling fans on '95 SE

OK, I've searched the archives and couldn't find any reference to it (the actual removal). I've got a Ford shop manual and have read it. But I'm still confused as to how the damn cooling fans can be removed from this bugger without practically having to take the engine out. Has anyone out there done this job and could give me a few tips. The manual says to take the radiator & the fan shroud out the bottom of the vehicle as an assembly, then disassemble/reassemble on the bench. But I sure can't see HTH they'll squeeze past the A/C compressor and other crap in the way; doesn't look like they'll come out the top either.

One of the fans just siezed (it's now disconnected) and I'm a couple of months out of the extended recall (00M13) time limit and even though the dealer tried, Furd wouldn't go for replacement of the fans under the program. They were serviced about 2 yrs ago under the original recall (00S44) but the fans were OK then so they just installed the electronic fuses - which worked, thank goodness.

The dealer quoted me about $350 labor to replace them + $300+ for the parts. I 've got a replacement assy. on its way from fordpartsonline for $235 incl. shipping. I'd like to get this done ASAP before hotter weather sets in and/or the other fan croaks.

Any/all help would be greatly appreciated, Kurt

Self serving bump

Furd dealer did both my cars under the recall. I asked the mechanic how they got it out without destroying half the car. He said it comes out the bottom easy when on a lift. Have to remove the tranny cooler lines if you have an ATX and the rad hose.

Thx 2X95SEs --

That's how the manual says to do it, but the view up from down below sure doesn't inspire any confidence that that's the case.

Kurt

They tore up a bunch of stuff in the process. Somehow the jerks broke the prop rod holder off and left it that way. I hate my dealers service departments, they never, ever, finish a job. Every time I went in for recall work I needed to leave the car when picking it up, or bring it back for something they left off or isn't working.I have at least a page full of stuff from both cars they didn't finish.

It is a PITA to remove. I had to replace mine when it melted (yes, melted the heck out of the wireing harnes)2 years ago (2 weeks before I received word on the recall, thanks Ford. ) I pulled a used one out of the junk yard along with a wiring harness for $80. If I had time I would have ordered a Hi performance slim fan from JC Whitney with thermo control for about the same price.

Anyway, There are 2 bolts on top, another 3 on the bottom and a temp thingy that needs disconected off of it(near the drivers side bottom, can't remember the name.) The intake hose needed pulled for access. I pulled from the top and ended up breaking the Hood clip, oh well. You have to practicaly force it through the AC lines (they made the shroud to go about 2" in around the radiator). After a lot of cussing it came out, and I put in the new one (more PITA shoving and manuvering) and sodered the new wireing harness.

Sense you have an SE I assume it is a v6 so it might not work the same sense there are tighter clearences.

Eric

My new fan assy is due in tomorrow -- not looking forward to doing that install!!

I gots to recuperate from the 8 hour UIM/LIM cleanup I did yesterday before I crawl under the SE again! The crud was really caked on - almost 1/32" thick granulated carbon. It took almost 6 hours for a friend and myself, working together, just to do the cleaning!! Glad I did it though - she really runs great now!

Noticed a few small splits in the insulation inside the injector harness where it runs under the UIM though - the rest of the harnesses in the engine compartment are still soft & flexible, with no sign of insulation deterioration. Prolly not a candidate for the warranty harness replacement - damn!

Kurt

Here's the 95 service manual procedure:

Cooling Fan Motor, Fan Blade and Fan Shroud Assembly, Electrical

WARNING:
TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF PERSONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE, DO NOT OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE HOOD (16612) OPEN UNTIL THE FAN BLADE (8600) HAS BEEN FIRST EXAMINED FOR POSSIBLE CRACKS AND SEPARATION.


Removal and Installation

1. Drain engine cooling system as outlined.

2. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, disconnect wiring harness connector from A/C cycling switch (19E561).

4. Remove main wiring harness retaining push pin from fan shroud (8146) and disconnect main wiring harness from retainer brackets located at top of fan shroud.

5. Move main wiring harness aside.

6. Remove cooling fan wiring ground cable from RH front fender apron (16055).

7. Remove upper radiator hose (8260) from radiator (8005).

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove radiator overflow hose (8075) from radiator.

9. Remove transmission oil cooler tube from oil cooler inlet fitting (if equipped).

10. Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

11. Remove lower radiator hose (8286) from radiator.

12. NOTE: Loosen transmission oil cooler tubes while holding radiator connector with back-up wrench.

Remove oil cooler tube from oil cooler outlet fitting on radiator (if equipped).

13. Disconnect A/C clutch field coil at wiring harness connector.

14. Remove transmission oil cooler tubes from retaining bracket located at front of front sub-frame (5C145) (if equipped).

15. Remove transmission oil cooler tubes retaining bracket from front sub-frame (if equipped).

16. Support fan shroud, radiator and A/C condenser core (19712) with a suitable jack stand. Remove lower radiator supports (16138) from front sub-frame.

17. Remove two retaining bolts for A/C condenser core from brackets at bottom of radiator.

18. Position jack stand aside and carefully remove the fan shroud and radiator as an assembly.

19. On bench, remove fan shroud from radiator.

20. To install, reverse Removal procedures. Tighten nuts retaining fan shroud and bolts retaining A/C condenser core to radiator retainers to 2.7-5.4 N-m (24-48 lb-in). Tighten lower radiator support retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in). If equipped, tighten transmission oil cooler tube to fitting to 24-31 N-m (18-23 lb-ft). Refill cooling system as outlined.

Thanks, projectSHO89. I read thru that procedure several times and crawled around under the car for a few looks - I'm still not convinced it's gonna come out the way the shop manual says. The A/C compressor just seems to be too much in the way. I guess I'll find out in the next coupla days.

Kurt