Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Suspension sub-frame failure with BAT "22"mm bar

I've done much reading about sub-frame failures with the "Aussie" bar, has anyone out there had this experience with the big BAT bar?

Let's just say that when I pulled off the BAT bar to install the Aussie Bar, part of the subframe on the driver's side that holds the stock swaybar mounting bracket tab was bent slightly. Who know's what would have happened eventually after another winter or two of salt? Actually I do know and it did happen to me after I installed the Aussie bar.

The moral of the story is that with anything above the stock bar, you should box in that area of the subframe or risk the consequences of a torn up subframe.

Now I know why everyone is selling them on the classifieds

Are you guys talking about the Front or rear bars. I was thinking of going to the Bat 22MM on the rear.

Definately talking about the rear. It's looking to me like the problem is not the bar, but rather , Ford's cheap way of doing things. The problem is in the swaybar mounts on the subrame. If your going to upgrade to any kind of heavier sway bar, these mounts should be reinforced. They're just not up to the heavier loads of a larger than stock sway bar IMO.

I have to crawl under to see for myself, but is the mount and the subframe area need to be beefed up?

I did a ton of subframe beefing as I had a '96 Grand Cherokee with a huge custom lift and running 35's, built V8, Dana 44 and 60 axels w/ 4.11 gears & lockers and rock crawled the ISH outta it, and those aren't kind to a weenie unibody like a ZJ has.

Hmmmmm, I wonder if I produced a "bolt-on" brace/mount for big sway bars if anyone would want one I'll have to check things out and come up with a design.

I've repaired many rear subframes. I speak from experience when I say, if you install a larger rear sway bar failure of the rear sub is INEVITABLE! The rear sub is underdesigned/engineered/fabricated. An extra 1-1/2 of weld per side would have helped immensely. Ford likely designed it to last through the warranty and that's it. They get a bit rusty, weaken and then whammo. We now sell reinforced rear subframes on an exchange basis. Our buttress plates DO NOT adversely affect the rear suspension geometry like the Aussie plates do, but they require the sub to be out of the chassis for install. This is important if your car is lowered. Otherwise, expect the dreaded sway bar "clunk".

Brad,
I have to disagree. I think Ford designed it work with a stock sway bar with lots of give. They were never designed with intention of a stiffer bar. Yuo don't here of many people ripping factory bars out and thicker bars are exponentially stiffer not slightly!

-Andy

Cost and core price?

I ripped my rear sway bar off at SZ2002.

Brad, good to hear from you!

I use the 22mm bar and I heard mine pop just sitting at a stop light about 2 months ago. I just unbolted it, straightened all the brackets and welded it back up with my mig welder. The welds make the section of metal a lot stonger so I hope it holds this time. But I do know what you're talking about. The metal is soft and has a lot of flex in it. It took about 1 year of driving with my sway bar before mine broke. I think one side broke first and the loud snap that I heard was the other one letting go. Scared the crap out of me because I thought I got hit with a rock or rear-ended or something! There was a car rolling up behind me when I heard it but he was too far back to be suspect. I just pulled over and looked around the car scratching my head and went home. I must have drove on it two weeks before I noticed it when I was checking my exhaust pipes. I really made the handling feel "squirly" in higher speed turns.

Tom