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I am replacing my right side drive shaft on my 95 Contour V6 and cant seem to get the old one off.. Now I have done drive shafts before but not one like this on. It is in to pieces and I cant figure out how to get it off. On must cars I just pry it off with a pry bar but I cant get a pry bar in there to pry it off. Any help is appreciated.

Pete

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Hopefully someone with experience will post a reply. Here's something to consider in the interim.

The service manual shows using a slide hammer in the wheel well (ie parallel to shaft). Slide hammer eqipped with cv extension and cv remover. Latter looks like crowsfoot socket which presumably threads into extension, which in turn threads into slide hammer.


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
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Where are those experts when you need them?

I wonder if a modified garden hoe could be used?

Have you tried search?

p.s. A modified, more specific topic heading might help attract the right people. Help topics are kind of redundant in a problem forum and don't help in future searches.


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
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I must be lucky because I had to pull the cv shaft when I replaced the alternator, and it just popped right out with the use of just a little force. You did unbolt the cv bracket on the middle of the shaft from the support mount? I could see it staying on if that wasn't done, but otherwise, like was mentioned, it should pop right out with a little applied pressure. I could double check my ford manual if you like.


95 mystique LS, High Output Cougar S (SVT) 2.5L engine & MTX75
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Lower b/joint needs to be off,the shaft will be tight in the hub and has to be pressed BACK thru the hub to remove, need the correct puller.....early drive flanges are very tight on the shafts...


V6 MTX
'Don't p**s up my back then tell me it's raining!!!"
'Its only nuts & bolts!'
'If I build it,fix it,upgrade it or modify it...MAYBE they will come....!
Haines Motor Sports Inc,
Dealer for 'Quaife America' & 'Autotech Sport Tuning'
SOLE USA Dealer for the American Axle 'AUSSIE BAR'...
Get a Turbo for you Zetec from HMS Inc...by 'The Demon' ...www.DemonDynamics.co.uk
..don't talk about it DO IT !!!
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Quote:
Originally posted by Terry Haines:
Lower b/joint needs to be off,the shaft will be tight in the hub and has to be pressed BACK thru the hub to remove, need the correct puller.....early drive flanges are very tight on the shafts...
The drive shaft is in two pieces. It came apart when the ball joint broke. Do I have to remove the heat shield for it to come off?? I will try that today if it stops raining.

Thanks
Pete

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This will get you up top and hopefully Terry Haines will provide you with final answers tomorrow am. However, to assist those of us watching here could you clarify:

OEM pass side driveline consists of two shafts, are you saying that due to breakage you will end up with three pieces?

What heat shield?

Your problem was removal at inboard end only, right?


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
Joined: Jan 2002
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OEM pass side driveline consists of two shafts, are you saying that due to breakage you will end up with three pieces?

Yes the shaft came apart at the joint.

----0/0-----0==
Drawling of the shaft where it came apart.
It came apart where it attaches to the 2ed shaft.

What heat shield?

The heat sheild is where the two shaft connect. Its held on by 2 or 3 10mm bolts.

Pete

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Site has been down so responses are going to be delayed.

From the manual it seems that to remove outer pass side shaft no need to remove Intermediate Halfshaft Bearing and Shield, it's held in place by the usual circlip. Shield would have to be unfastened from support bracket only to remove intermediate shaft.

Bearing/shield fastened to support bracket by 2 nuts, bracket to engine by 3 bolts. Two pairs of holes in bearing/shield, closest to engine of each pair for atx, furthest for mtx. {This info provided to make sure we are looking at the same thing}.

Is disconnecting shield and removing intermediate shaft an option?


98 Mystique LS v6 atx 110,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 125,000km
stock CD on LS, cass on LX
spoiler, tinted windows on LS only
4 wheel discs on LX only
All other available options on both
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 5,805
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1)Leave the inner 'jack shaft' which is on a bracket to the block inplace 2)The hub nut end of the outer(2 joints) drive shaft will be very tight on the splines in the hub, it has to be pushed back out of the hub splines but only with a puller secured to the lug nut studs and the knuckle has to be off and 'floating..3)It sounds like you have pulled the INNER cv joint apart within the boot,to get the 'tripod' part off the fixed/solid 'jackshaft' needs a sharp blow with a drift or hard wood to knock it off of the jackshaft splines...good luck(NOTE) IF you attempt to hammer the outer drive shaft out of the hub flange you will DAMAGE THE HUB BEARING..with EXTREME care in this area)


V6 MTX
'Don't p**s up my back then tell me it's raining!!!"
'Its only nuts & bolts!'
'If I build it,fix it,upgrade it or modify it...MAYBE they will come....!
Haines Motor Sports Inc,
Dealer for 'Quaife America' & 'Autotech Sport Tuning'
SOLE USA Dealer for the American Axle 'AUSSIE BAR'...
Get a Turbo for you Zetec from HMS Inc...by 'The Demon' ...www.DemonDynamics.co.uk
..don't talk about it DO IT !!!
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