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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,408
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Hard-core CEG'er
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FAQ Why did you start yelling? The belt is for acessories only. The timing chains use hydraulic tensioners which are supposed to hold pressure between starts. They leak down and have to be re-pressurized at startup. Sometimes they stick and the noise won't stop. Use a filter with a good anti-drainback valve (read -not Fram). If there is crud in the engine, a flush may help. The only real fix is to replace the tensioners. This requires a teardown of the front of the engine. On some engines there was a fan clutch, not a clutch fan.
"Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" -George Santayana
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 70
CEG\'er
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OP
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sorry about the yelling - didnt see the persons post and wanted to differentiate my type tothe responders.. Can u name the brands andor locations /= sellers (ie pep boys, walmart) .. of the anti-drainback filter - ? do the ford filters have this ? purolator ? would the selling book have the mention of anti-drainback valve for the 'premium' filter ? Also someone mentioned the Ford TSB for the fix (which sounds like a bia... due that the engine is really shoehorned in there to begin with .. getting access to the front of it would be .. nightmare ... probably requirre cherry picker... is the TSB at this location ? https://myford.fordvehicles.com/
its just a car to get from pt a to b
usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1
95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,319
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Rogerm60 has provided direct link to FAQ which contains TSB info. Were you able to read it?
To navigate there:
Home page > FAQ > Common problems, scroll down to Noises >'Engine makes clattering ...', > tsb.
98 Mystique LS v6 atx 163,000km
97 Contour LX v6 atx 163,000km
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 23
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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Motorcraft 820-s filter has the silicone valve and is a steal for about $2.97 at WallyWorld.
'99 SVT Contour, K&N, B&M, DMD, 'Foamed' Chassis
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Thanks for the advice .. I put the new filter in and put (price exactly as quoted from a super walmart) in new 5w-30 super tech full synthetic (thats about $2.97 a qt .. unfortunately , no 5 quart containers so you must drop $15 for the 5 individual quarts at wallyworld). tomorrow when i start up cold .. we'll see if she's rattlin like a banche still..
eric
its just a car to get from pt a to b
usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1
95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 135
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 135 |
Originally posted by eric1: ...5 individual quarts...
you have the 2.5L? doesn't it take about 5.7 quarts? i put 6 in mine actually, just to have it a little over (for those high revs in the twisties )
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Joined: Jan 2003
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You're right - I looked at the dipstick to find that its only about maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the way up from the 'bottom' level .. (should be about 1 quart to raise level from bottom dot to top "full" dote) ... so .. walmart only had 4 quarts of super tech .. i ended driving back [good thing its only about a mile away] ( i thought i had some at home ) and getting a quart of valvoline 5w30 full synthetic at $4.27 (boo hoo) .. now I have to get another ( SIXTH ) quart of that expensive stuff ! !but at least the change is good for 7500 miles !
its just a car to get from pt a to b
usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1
95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 70
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Well .. On cold start, the rattling is only about a second or less compared to 2 maybe 3 it seemed before .. and I beleive it will rattle even less when I get the oil level to the Full mark as it is a little less than 1/2 way between the full and empty marks on teh dipstick.
its just a car to get from pt a to b
usually it does it nicely --AIM: chronon1
95 Tour SE, 2.5 lliter 24V DOHC V6, 5 speed manual
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,061
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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it should help with the problem but i dont know if the oil level being higher will totally eliminate it...due to leaking i had to switch from mobil1 5-30 back to valvoline maxlife 5-30 with my last change...oil stays in the engine much better (i haven't seen any leaking the last few weeks or so) and i starting to think it helps with the startup rattle
we moved a month ago or so and now i have to park on the street..sometimes facing uphill and sometimes facing downhill...i haven't noticed the cold start rattle in some time
99 expedition eddie bauer, 5.4 v8, k&n drop-in, 3" magnaflow catback and gas mileage that makes the contour look like a hybrid
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,603
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by eric1: You're right - I looked at the dipstick to find that its only about maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the way up from the 'bottom' level .. (should be about 1 quart to raise level from bottom dot to top "full" dote) ... so .. walmart only had 4 quarts of super tech .. i ended driving back [good thing its only about a mile away] ( i thought i had some at home ) and getting a quart of valvoline 5w30 full synthetic at $4.27 (boo hoo) .. now I have to get another ( SIXTH ) quart of that expensive stuff ! !but at least the change is good for 7500 miles !
Whether youy use DINO OIL or SYNTHETIC OIL you should be changing your oil every 3000 miles or less.
You need to have a MINIMUM of 6.3 Quarts of oil in your pan. Rousch Racing did a test with a Duratec Engine and with 5.8 quarts of oil. At 5000 RPM there was only 1/2 quart of oil in the pan. So if you are running 5 quarts or less in your engine, you are running an extremely good chance of spinning some bearings...
I use 6.5 quarts Mobil 1 5W-30 and a K&N HP2010 filter every 2500 miles. I've been using it ever since my Tour hit 60,000 miles, and she is still pulling as strong as she can !
Pete...
2004 Mercury Marauder 300A
Black Clearcoat/Dark Charcoal LEATHER
DOB 10/31/2003
DOP 1/2/2004
www.mercurymarauder.net
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