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Joined: Jun 2001
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Originally posted by MY99SVT:
Everytime (4) I've gotten that code, I've had to replace the DPFE sensor.
I'm on my 5th now. Kinda sucks but warranty is good for something. Wouldn't you think that after 4, maybe there is another cause?
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 656
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I reset/cleared P 0402 with the OBD-II software driven a couple of cycles still OK.
after that high speed segment I-80 210 miles around Chicago yesterday 31.8mpg P 0402 can come back :rolleyes: Maybe it's that oxygenated Mobil gas in the Rockford area????? The good mileage not the code.
Paul
it happens every time on the way back that fill-up is aways approx 2 mpg better than normal?
DPFE sensor
1. disconnect the pressure hoses at the sensor
2. connect a hand vaccum pump to the downstream pickup marked REF on the sensor.
3. Using a mulitimeter, backprobe the STG RTN circuit at the DPFE connector.
4. With igniton ON, signal voltage should be 0.20-0.70 volts
5. apply 8-9 in. Hg of vaccum, voltage should be greater than 4 volts
6. quickly release the vaccum voltage shold drop to less than 1 volt in 3 seconds.
However if the DPFE is bad you would think you would get codes P1400 or P1401 or if up or downstream problem P1405 or 1406.
Chilton's can you trust it?
7. Here's Chilton's for you-- if the sensor does not respond as specified, check the power and grnd circuit. HOW?
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 498
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When I was getting P0402, removing the EGR valve, cleaning it as well as I could, and putting it back, made the problem go away, for a week or two, then it came back. Replacing the EVR, likewise, seemed to cure the problem for a short while, but it soon enough returned. Replacing the EGR valve with a whole new EGR valve made the problem go away, and several months later, it has not returned. I'm not sure how bad it is in a Duratec, but in a Zetec, removing and reinstalling the EGR valve is a major pain in the a$$. It just isn't worth it to go to all the trouble, just to clean and reinstall the same old EGR valve. After doing that once, I swore that the only way I would ever again remove the EGR valve would be if I had a brand new one to install in its place.
{I do hate spam, but that isn't really part of my email address. Remove the string ?HatesSpam? from the email address ?BobHatesSpam@blaylock.to? to email me. No advertisements. Spammers will be dealt with very harshly!} ------- Moonlight Blue 1996 Mercury Mystique GS , Zetec engine, ATX. No mods. (Well, OK, one mod. Before I got rid of my previous car, a 1994 Tempo, I swapped radios. I liked the Tempo's radio better. That counts as a mod, doesn't it? I also kept one of my Tempo's wheels to use as a spare. I hate those stupid ?compact? spares that come with modern cars. Does this count as a mod? If so, I guess I have two mods. Replaced burned/melted blower switch and connector on 19 February 2002 with a 1P3T toggle switch from Marvac and a Molex connector from Rat Shack; I guess this now makes three mods.)
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Joined: May 2000
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I just couldn't leave the vanished P0402 along. So I took the EGR apart no leaks even after 15 mins with carb. cleaner. Checked solenoid coil resistance 33.3 ohms (Spec 26-40 ohms) and clean. All ready had done operational test with vacuum meter.
What I really wanted to check was the DPFE. Ok actually doing it by Chilton's step #3 is in error. SIG RTN not the wire you want to read, the top wire DPFE SIG + lead and ground the _ meter lead. Mine read 0.7 volts and at 8-9 in Hg. vaccum 4.56 volts. If you pressure the REF it does go to 0.175 volts. The range of the DPFE per Mitchells is .02-4.56volts. It's definitely not the most convenient place to back probe, cars would be so simple if parts layout/positioning was easy to access. Of course the car would cost most more to execute, since no one has ever done such a thing????? :rolleyes:
Oh yes, you can also read the voltage while driving using Alex's software (for those who have it) Access "Data" tab and then select "Enhanced" $22 Mode PID 114E "DPFEGR" . I did a test drive and recorded and then played it back and watched the voltage swing thru range of voltages. Since this only updates ever 7 seconds it takes time to replay thru and find.
More later good ole cloudy rainy days, don't have to mow the pasture errr yard.
Paul
Oh well good Ole "PFM" strikes again, I'm not complaining. No CEL
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 237
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Originally posted by F111D F:
What I really wanted to check was the DPFE. Ok actually doing it by Chilton's step #3 is in error. SIG RTN not the wire you want to read, the top wire DPFE SIG + lead and ground the _ meter lead. Mine read 0.7 volts and at 8-9 in Hg. vaccum 4.56 volts. If you pressure the REF it does go to 0.175 volts. The range of the DPFE per Mitchells is .02-4.56volts. It's definitely not the most convenient place to back probe, cars would be so simple if parts layout/positioning was easy to access. What parts did you remove in order to test the DPFE? I'm looking at running the same test in the next few weeks (since I am receiving a P0401).
1996 Contour SE Sedan 4D (Royal Blue)
Duratec V6 2.5L 24-valve DOHC
Automatic
75,000 miles
No Mods (unless you call the DMD a mod)
Replaced EGR valve (gunked up), EVR (EGR VR), PCV valve, and evaporative emissions hose (cracked).
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 656
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AIR filter box and accordion hose should be enough, may have remove the DPFE itself it you cann't remove the two hoses. And putting a straight pin in beside the is had to see. Of course with glass on or off I have trouble now. ORF old fart
Paul
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,537
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A quick easy test for the EGR Vacuum regultor is this...
Remove the Vacuum hose from the EGR Valve.
Place a Vacuum gauge or vacuum pump on the end of the hose,
in place of the egr valve.
At Idle, the vacuum should be ZERO.
If the vacuum is anything other than zero,
the regulator is leaking,
and the leaking vacuum is opening the EGR valve,
and throwing the code you got.
No need to replace the EGR Valve unless the Vacuum
reading stays at DEAD ZERO.
Don't clean it - REPLACE IT.
Pete... 98.5 SE Sport Duratec ATX (P66L) Black Clearcoat on Greystone DOB 11/21/1997 DOP 12/25/1997 PIAA 510 Super White Driving Lights SVT CAT-BACK EXHAUST (No Resonator) DiabloSport Chip (LPQ4) - Engineered To Raise Hell Too many other mods to list... Sounds sweet, runs quick... Crazy Horse Dyno @ 121.4 WHP/129.6 TQ
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Joined: May 2000
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AND one thing to add Pete. Before I got crazy here, I did hook up the vaccum gauge ( tee into the EGR line. After a couple minutes of warm up and while blipping the throttle (different lengths of time) the vaccum did rise and releasing the throttle the vaccum dropped imediately.
Yes I could have stopped there, well I had to see if could this DPFE dingus-adapter.
Evidently my code set was intermittent, but that's OK HOWEVER, it would like to find where
the information is that explains the parameters how each code is set?????????????
Paul
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 237
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Originally posted by F111D F:
...would like to find where the information is that explains the parameters how each code is set????????????? Two sources that will help are: 1. The Ford TSP (Technical Service Publication) CD (available for ~ $8) 2. The Ford Motor Company 2000 MY OBD-II System Operation Summary for Gasoline Engines at http://www.sts.sae.org/membersonly/techinfo/obd2000.pdf
1996 Contour SE Sedan 4D (Royal Blue)
Duratec V6 2.5L 24-valve DOHC
Automatic
75,000 miles
No Mods (unless you call the DMD a mod)
Replaced EGR valve (gunked up), EVR (EGR VR), PCV valve, and evaporative emissions hose (cracked).
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