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What rpm range? Rods are more likely to fail from tensile loads rather than compressive loads, and that usually means higher rpms. Of course just because Demon ran 8k rpm all the time and the rods were fine, that wasn't under boosted conditions. I'd say respect the 7000 rpm range as a hard limit when boosting above 8psi.

If you stay in the stock range then I'd guess about 10-12 psi is no problem for a daily driver with your compression on those pistons. I've already ran 12 psi more than once. I accidentally ran 14.7psi for a short time and the engine didn't even hiccup....the tires did though.

I'm having issues with one of my banks setting a lean code this weekend, but that is only under cruise conditions. Under full throttle it seems very safe. Probably an O2 sensor issue for me since I'm using a really old O2 sensor in that bank. I have a new one waiting to go in, I'm just lazy.

With a good tune and cool intake temps you should be able to run 15psi for short duration runs, like ocassional romps in 3rd gear. If you were doing an actual race on a straightaway boosting 15psi in 4th gear then I'd be adding octane booster even on a streetable tune. Intake temps will still rise and of course combustion temps go up quickly.
Runs in 1st and 2nd will just be tire burning bliss on the street at anything over 8psi. Make sure that if you are going to really race several laps at boost above 12psi that you go up incrementally and do runs just listening for anything that sounds funny like pinging. Pay attention to exhaust temps and intake temps if you have gauges. Make sure you do some runs with a wideband O2 sensor at lower pressure then medium, and finally high pressure and see just what the O2 values are. You don't want to find out that you exceeded the limits of your injectors or MAF or fuel pump accidentally; even if they are "supposed" to handle the boost you calculated, something may not be right.
Best to test 15psi on the dyno where you can watch the torque curve for signs of jagged torque indicating spark issues that can come from either fuel or spark plugs. But still, don't be afraid to try out a 15psi run if everything else looks fine leading up to it.

BTW, I'm running 8psi daily right now. Very strong. I have to feather the throttle in first gear and of course when I engage the clutch in second. But if the road is good and I engage the clutch smoothly then I can hold 2nd gear at 8psi.

If FordRule comes back on he'll probably give you a first hand story about the acceleration because he was around here on Thursday and I gave him a ride.



Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Well?? Whats the verdict? Are you going to crank the boost?


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Swwwwwweeet! That's exactly what I wanted to know, and from someone with first hand knowledge too A PM to you was in order I guess.

I've got one very small oil leak at the block where it was tapped for the oil return, that I'm going to fix tonight. I've got to get the correct amount of coolant for the IC system, but it'll also get corrected tonight. Bascly, just stupid small stuff..... but I wanted to correct them before I have to move out of my currant shop and begin a decent break in period.

I wanted to have my game plan down and have 5-10 steps ahead of myself planned. I now KNOW I will need an RPM/Gear dependant boost controller to best use my setup, but that can wait. I do have a very low dollar/high quality idea to replace my greddy EBC when time allows.


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Swazo. I've been working on a boost controller for a very long time. I'm testing some stuff right now but if it works out, I'll be able to control boost as a function of wheel speed, at a fraction of the cost of a retail unit. CHeapest unit I've seen that controls boost as a function of RPM is like $800.



Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I thought the avc-r controlled it based off of gear/rpm...you can get those for about 400 or so


98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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The apexi avc-r can be had for as low as $350 shipped, but I've still got an idea that'd be as good/better.... for less


Now, there is this from NZ.
Independent Electronic Boost Controller

Hand Controller for Digital Adjusters


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Actually Jaycar is Australian.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by stilov:
I thought the avc-r controlled it based off of gear/rpm...you can get those for about 400 or so




Not really. If you read into it you find that it only "approximates" boost per gear. It can do it off of rpm but that doesn't help us. 5000 rpm with 7psi in first gear will burn the tires but it will do nicely in 2nd gear.
We really need multistage per gear, or on mph. The ones that do it truly on mph are very expensive.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Looks like it has potential. Still, you would have to have a low and a high and then program the boost based on rpm.
If it were truly based on MPH then it wouldn't matter what gear you were in and the rpm would take care of itself so to speak, or be taken care of at the same time.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I've heard of people using boost selenoids off dsms for a very cheap dsbc. If you all are interested I can dig up the info.

Quote:

I've got one very small oil leak at the block where it was tapped for the oil return




I assume you meant feed?


98 3.0 svt: Sold
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